The great Shetland bucket list: Part III

By Toby SkinnerMay 17th 2021

Whether you’re a local or a visitor, Shetland is an adventure waiting to happen, whether discovering deep nature, ancient history or the best Shetland seafood. In the third part of our Shetland bucket list, we reveal ten more great things to do on the islands

Fishing lodges at Fethaland | David Gifford

21. Find ancient remains at Fethaland

The walk to Fethaland, a peninsula at the northernmost edge of the Shetland Mainland, is one of Shetland’s classic hikes – a five-hour circular route of steep cliffs and uninterrupted nature, but also fascinating history. On the way north, you pass the Kame of Isbister, a dramatic sea stack that’s home to a set of mysterious structures thought to have been a Pictish monastery. Near the northern edge of the walk, you’ll come across the remains of a series of ancient stone fishing lodges, from the Viking days when Fethaland was one of Shetland’s biggest fishing stations. Six-oared sixareens would head out to fish at “Da Far Haaf”, the edge of the Continental shelf 50 miles west, then process the fish here – meaning there are still ancient fish bones strewn around the place. Nearby, on the way to the lighthouse at the end of the peninsula, there’s an Iron Age brochs, and the outline of a Neolithic house. For all the wildness, there’s a tangible sense of what was once here.

22. Get up close with the Hams of Muckle Roe

In a place known for dramatic cliffs and stacks, the Hams of Muckle Roe are up there among the most spectacular. On this island on Shetland’s west side, it’s a fairly long and challenging circular six-hour walk from the end of the road to the stacks at North and South Ham (Ham means “haven” or “harbour” in local dialect). There are show-stopping sites all along the steep red granite cliffs, including the plunging Hole of Hellier sea hole, and The Spindle, a tall narrow column that’s considered one of the country’s most dramatic stacks. The Hams themselves are stunning, and the secluded natural harbour at South Ham was where fishermen would land contraband in the 19th Century.

23. Get high on Ronas Hill

While Shetland is known for steep sea cliffs and jagged sea stacks, its interior is often described as rolling rather than hilly. But Ronas Hill is the highest point on the islands, at 450 metres, and on a clear day you can see much of Shetland, and even occasionally as far as Fair Isle. It’s just a few hours round trip from the transmitter station car park near North Collafirth to the summit, where there’s an ancient Neolithic stone cairn. But for an extra adventure, keep walking to the reddish Lang Ayre beach, one of Shetland’s most otherworldly spots.

24. Take a selfie at Britain’s kitschiest bus shelter

Unst, Britain’s northernmost island, is also home to possibly the nation’s kitschiest bus shelter. It’s known locally as Bobby’s Bus Shelter, after local boy Bobby McCauley, who was seven in 1996, when he wrote to the council asking them not to tear down the bus shelter where he kept his bike. Soon, a sofa, a table, a TV and a microwave began appearing in the shelter, with its own visitor’s book. Since 2002, it’s had a different theme most years – from an Africa theme in 2005, when Bobby went to study in Swaziland, to a woman’s theme in 2018 (marking a century of female suffrage) and an optical theme in 2020 (2020 vision, geddit?). If you’re passing, be sure to stop for a selfie (and tag #bobbysbusshelter on Instagram) and to sign the visitor’s book.

'2020 Vision' at Bobby's Bus Shelter | Jayne Lawless/CrowdRiff

Red-necked phalarope | Shetland Nature/CrowdRiff

25. Spy a phalarope at the Loch of Funzie

The red-necked phalarope is tiny, and skittish. But the rarity of these small wading birds makes them a prize sighting for keen bird-watchers. There may rarely be more than 12 breeding pairs around Fetlar’s Loch of Funzie each summer, but that is more than anywhere else in the UK. Even then, they often hide in the peaty mires around the loch, where – unusually – it is the males who rear the young chicks. Spotting one is a definite bucket-list tick, but if not it’s a beautiful spot for a stroll with a pair of binoculars.

26. Find Edmonston’s Chickweed on Unst

Shetland is often about the big things. Big seas, big skies, big landscapes and powerful wildlife, from orcas to chunky great skuas, or bonxies in local dialect. But one of its rarest pieces of nature is Edmonston’s Chickweed, a little white flower that’s sometimes known as “Shetland mouse-ear”, which was first recorded in 1837 by 12-year-old botanist Thomas Edmonston. This little flower only grows in one place on Earth: the Keen of Hamar nature reserve on Unst, Britain’ northernmost inhabited island. The numbers of these little flowers vary every year, for reasons that are unclear, but seeing them is to see a precious little jewel of nature.

Peerie Voe, Spiggie | Andrew Simpson/CrowdRiff

27. Swim wild at Peerie Voe

Wild swimming has boomed in Shetland over the past few years, and especially during Covid lockdowns. There are great swims across the islands, but one of the best is the Peerie Voe at Spiggie, a beautiful sandy beach whose clear waters are relatively sheltered and safe for swimming (as always, swim with a friend and only when conditions are safe). It’s worth taking a snorkel, too. According to underwater photographer Bily Arthur, there are gullies just off the beach that are filled with crabs, lobsters and bright anemones.

28. Explore Ronas Voe by kayak

Shetland is a world-class destination for kayaking and coasteering, with cliffs, stacks and caves around much of its perimeter. One of the best spots for a kayak adventure is Ronas Voe in Shetland’s North Mainland – a beautiful inlet packed with red granite cliffs, stacks and atmospheric sea caves. There are also lots of tunnels through the rocks, where you can often spy otters and ‘mareel’, the Shetland word for shimmering phosphorescent plankton that light up with the stroke of an oar. Breeding puffins and playful seals are also a regular feature, with sea sponges and anemones often visible through the clear water in the magical summer months. Always go with a guide who understands the Shetland sea and weather, such as Sea Kayak Shetland.

Orcas from the shoreline | Steve Truluck/CrowdRiff

29. Go on an orca chase

Ask any Shetland naturalists or photographer – like Richard Shucksmith or drone operator Nick McCaffrey – and they’ll tell you that one of the most exciting things to do in Shetland is to follow the orcas that appear around the islands regularly, especially in the summer. “They might cover 40km in a day, and I’ve had days when I’ve chased them all the way up the Shetland coast,” says Richard, who often films Shetland wildlife for visiting TV crews. “It’s always a thrill, and I get this kind of manic energy when they’re around.” Even Richard and his teams often film from the shoreline so as not to overly disturb pods like the 27s, a regular visiting pod. We recommend doing the same, as these amazing predators often come close to the shoreline to hunt.

30. Try the world’s best mussels

We think Shetland mussels are the best in the world. Raised in chilly, unpolluted waters with plentiful plankton, and washed daily by the tides, they are plump and delicious – not to mention sustainably produced by small local businesses. The good news is that you can try them across the islands. In Lerwick, you’ll find great mussels at Lerwick’s Scandi-style cafe-restaurant The Dowry, or across the road at French bistro C’est La Vie, as well as the Frankie’s fish and chips shop in Brae, to the north.