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Bird Watching

Ever since bird watching became a popular British leisure pursuit in the late 19th century, Shetland's been famous, among those in the know, as the place to enjoy sensational seabird colonies and amazing rarities.

If you want close-up views of tens of thousands of breeding gannets, alongside guillemots, puffins, razorbills, kittiwakes, fulmars, head for Sumburgh Head, Noss or Hermaness nature reserves. These three large seabird colonies are easily accessible, Sumburgh Head especially so. On Noss and Hermaness, and on coastal moorland elsewhere, you’ll probably encounter great skuas ('bonxies'), globally rare and aggressive, gull-sized birds, which are fond of dive-bombing hill walkers. To reduce the risk of being hit, keep to any marked path or trail and hold a stick or something similar above your head. More than half the world's population of this species breeds in Shetland. You may also come across the equally feisty Arctic skua.

Sumburgh Head RSPB reserve is the most accessible seabird colony in Shetland and is particularly good for people with reduced mobility. The Sumburgh cliffs are home to thousands of seabirds in the breeding season, with puffins, guillemots, razorbills, fulmars, kittiwakes and shags easily viewed. It is also one of the best places in Shetland to watch for sea mammals. The Sumburgh Lighthouse Visitor Centre contains a superb natural history exhibition and many aids to interpreting what you can see on the cliff edges.

This is our second trip to Shetland. We simply enjoy the nature and the hospitality of all people and relaxing. We will certainly come back again.

Noss is one of the most spectacular wildlife sites in Europe, just a short distance by water from Lerwick, Shetland's capital. You can take a 3-hour boat trip around the cliffs or make your way across the isle of Bressay (an approximately 20 minute journey by car, or hour and a half on foot) for the 200-yard ferry crossing of Noss Sound and spend a day walking on the island. The first sight of Noss always sticks in visitors' memories, even if they've no previous interest in birds. The spectacle of 23,000 gannets, 24,000 guillemots and 10,000 fulmar festooned over a mile of cliffs, up to 592' (181m) high, is simply astounding, as is the roar of the massed 'choir' of parents and chicks.

Hermaness, which includes the dramatic precipices of the Muckle Flugga stacks off the northern tip of Unst, has even more gannets and is one of the best places to see the piratical (but smaller) bonxies attacking them and stealing their food. The puffins on Hermaness and the neighbouring headland of Saxa Vord probably number over 23,000 and are astonishingly tame. As at Noss, the reserve is privately owned but managed by Scottish Natural Heritage, and guided walks may be arranged on request.

Noss is one of the most spectacular wildlife sights in Europe

Another prime bird watching location is the RSPB reserve on the island of Fetlar. The island boasts fine views of birds such as skuas and terns. but is famous as the summer home of one of Britain's rarest breeding birds - the red necked phalarope. Fetlar accounts for 90% of the UK population of these remarkably tame birds. In June and July they can be seen at close quarters from an RSPB hide in the Mires of Funzie, or on the nearby Loch of Funzie. Another rare bird, the whimbrel, also nests in Fetlar. Around 80 pairs breed on the island, which is 15% of the UK breeding population. In the past, Fetlar has even had the UK's only pair of breeding snowy owls.

For wildfowl, the RSPB Reserve at the Loch of Spiggie is particularly good in autumn and winter. It's notable for whooper swans on their migration, and there are good numbers of ducks such as the tufted and goldeneye.

Slightly harder to get to, but well worth the effort, are Foula (probably the bonxie capital of the world) and Fair Isle. Both islands offer superb birding in beautiful surroundings, as do the much less well-known Out Skerries.

Shetland Holiday Highlight

Another Shetland speciality is the storm petrel. A night visit with the Mousa Ferry to the spooky and astonishingly noisy breeding colony in the 2,500-year-old broch on the uninhabited island of Mousa is a must – one of the highlights of a Shetland holiday.

Mousa is an RSPB reserve. In addition to the storm petrels at night time, there are Arctic and great skuas, Arctic terns, gulls, and many other birds easily viewed.

The Shetland breeding list includes red-throated divers, and waders and moorland birds such as snipe, dunlin, golden plover, redshank, ringed plover, lapwing, curlew, the much rarer whimbrel and even a few whooper swans.

Winter Birds

The birdwatching's not confined to the summer: there are gannets and fulmars around the coast for most of the winter, along with residents like shags, cormorants, tysties, eiders and ravens, while great northern divers, Slavonian grebes, herons, whooper swans, Iceland gulls, turnstones, purple sandpipers and snow buntings are among the regular winter visitors.

Irresistible Urge to 'Twitch'

For 'twitchers', Shetland is irresistible during the spring and autumn bird migrations, especially when foggy south-easterly winds push thousands of Scandinavian migrants out over the North Sea and force them to land on Shetland for rest and food. Among routine transients such as redwings and fieldfares are sometimes sensational rarities which (like Fair Isle's famous thick-billed warbler from Siberia, or Bressay's surf scoter from North America) bring crowds of enthusiastic birders north with 'scopes and checklists, whatever the weather!

The biggest rarities often turn up in well-watched places like Fair Isle and Out Skerries but wandering oddities can appear anywhere, any time – just one more reason why Shetland spells bliss for birders.

One Big Ornithological Laboratory

Since the founding of the Fair Isle Bird Observatory in 1948, the amount of scientific ornithology carried out in Shetland has vastly increased. As well as Fair Isle's pioneering studies on bird migration, Shetland's become an open-air laboratory for a great deal of research into the breeding ecology of seabirds. In Foula, for example, Glasgow University zoologists have spent many seasons on a special study of the bonxie.

Observations by local and visiting birdwatchers play an important part in all this scientific work. The Shetland Bird Club publishes a quarterly newsletter and an award-winning annual report, while the Shetland Biological Records Centre employs a full-time scientist to log all significant sightings of birds and other wildlife in the islands.

Pollution worries over the building of the Sullom Voe Oil Terminal in the 1970s led to the setting up of a unique environmental monitoring programme with annual surveys of seabird numbers and breeding success, making Shetland one of the best-documented areas in the world for ornithology. Fortunately the pollution caused by the terminal has been minimal. The wreck of the tanker 'Braer', near Sumburgh Head in January 1993, was unconnected with Sullom Voe. The incident occurred well outside the breeding season, so had only a limited impact on bird populations.

Concern now centres on the effects of global warming on seabird populations. There have been some disappointing breeding seasons in recent years, apparently due to lack of food. But seabirds are extremely tough, mostly long-lived creatures and, despite fluctuating populations, Shetland remains a world-class attraction for birdwatchers, whether professionals or absolute beginners. Ornithology has become a significant source of income for the islanders and the visitor with binoculars and bird book is sure of an especially warm welcome.

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