What happens on Lerwick Up Helly Aa day?

The passing of winter and the lengthening of daylight hours has been celebrated in Shetland for centuries.

In the 1800s this important moment was marked by Lerwick residents by dragging burning tar barrels through the streets of the town. A celebration that was inherently dangerous.

By the 1880s the festival was changing. Up Helly Aa as we know it was introduced along with a Viking Jarl’s Squad, torchlit processions and the burning of a replica longship known as a galley.

That tradition has continued ever since and has grown so that there is now a whole season of fire festivals starting in early January and not ending until mid-March.

Lerwick Up Helly Aa, held on the last Tuesday of January, remains the largest and, for many, the most dramatic. The festival is led by the Guizer Jarl, or chief Viking, a huge honour for the chosen individual.

The Guizer Jarl is supported by a squad, all dressed in splendid Viking-inspired suits made annually and only revealed on the morning of the event.

Each year Up Helly Aa attracts visitors from around the world, but what happens on Lerwick Up Helly Aa day? You’re about to discover and get an insight into why Up Helly Aa is so important to the community, and why it is about a lot more than Vikings.

Here is what to expect on Lerwick Up Helly Aa day...

This part of Up Helly Aa originates from the festival’s earliest days when a proclamation including instructions for participants, known as guisers, was pinned to the Market Cross in Lerwick. Despite the advent of digital communications, the proclamation or “bill” is still an important part of the Up Helly Aa tradition and is unveiled (very) early in the morning.

These days rather than instructions, it is more likely to include satirical commentary on Lerwick events, and poke good-hearted fun at the Guizer Jarl and other prominent Shetland figures. It’s seen by most as an honour to be named on the bill, that should be taken in good humour.

If you want to see the unveiling, you’ll have to set your alarm, the bill is hand-painted the day before Up Helly Aa and is kept secret until the last moment. It is taken to the Market Cross by torchlight at 6am, and the bill remains there all day.

The unveiling of the proclamation is just the start of festivities that will go on for more than 24 hours. The film below explains more about the history of Up Helly Aa and why it's such an important festival.

Each year, Up Helly Aa is led by a Guizer Jarl and Jarl’s Squad, who spend the previous year preparing suits, shields, axes and helmets to be worn on the day. In fact, the Lerwick Guizer Jarl will have spent 15 years serving on the voluntary committee that organises the event, with their day at the helm the culmination of all that effort.

Every Jarl’s Squad takes immense pride in crafting intricate suits that make them look their very best.

Seeing the Jarl’s Squad in all its splendour for the first time is one of the most-anticipated moments of any Up Helly Aa. The earliest opportunity to do this comes when the squad forms ranks for the morning parade.

This sets off from the Islesburgh Community Centre on King Harald Street at 8.20am, accompanied by a pipe band, and lots of Viking roars! The squad will make its way to the Toll Clock Shopping Centre, and Lerwick’s Royal British Legion, collecting the galley on route.

Like the Jarl’s Squad suit, every year a replica Viking longboat or galley, is crafted over the winter by volunteers. A new galley is built every year, and at the end of the procession it is burnt!

In Lerwick the hard work is done at the Galley Shed on St Sunniva Street, and the galley will be painted to match the suits (often inspired by football loyalties). On Up Helly Aa day the morning parade heads along St Sunniva Street, where the galley is collected and then hauled along with the squad, before being taken to its daytime “dock” next to the Bressay Ferry Terminal.

The galley will stay there until the evening and is also the location for one of the Jarl’s Squad pit stops. The whole squad will gather there for photos at the end of their morning parade.

We’ve already described the start of the morning parade when the squad is welcomed into the Royal British Legion for presentations. This part of the day is a private function, but visitors can wait outside or head towards the town centre and find a position to watch the next part of the celebrations.

Upon departing the Legion, the squad musters and the Vikings' parade continues along Commercial Road and the Esplanade heading to the Market Cross for 10am. Songs will be sung at the cross, and the squad then marches along Commercial Street to be reunited with the galley at Bressay Ferry Terminal for the photos.

The importance of Up Helly Aa is reflected in the fact that for 24 hours the Guizer Jarl is given the freedom of Lerwick and is invited as guest of honour to a Town Hall reception. This is a real honour for the Jarl and the squad and is for invited guests only.

After the reception, the squad separates into two “ranks” who make various visits around Lerwick stopping at schools, care homes and supported living accommodation and other community hubs, giving as many locals as possible the chance to meet the squad.

At the end of the afternoon visits, the Guizer Jarl and squad head to Shetland Museum around 3pm, giving the public a chance to meet the Vikings and even try on the helmets and axes. While this is open to the public, it gets very busy, and it is best to contact Shetland Museum and Archives to ask whether tickets are needed. Those lucky enough to attend this event will hear the squad sing the Up Helly Aa Song and the squad’s own song (usually one of the Jarl’s favourites). Music is played by the squad band, featuring some of the islands’ exceptional musicians. Expect fiddles, guitars, mandolins, and accordions accompanying the choir of gutsy Viking singers.

The museum appearance is the Jarl’s Squad’s last public event before the evening procession.

Every year in Lerwick one lucky school pupil is selected by their peers to be the Junior Jarl, complete with squad. Like the adults, they make several visits through the day, and celebrate the passing of winter with a torchlit procession and galley burning.

The junior procession starts at 5.30pm from Hillhead and the Junior Jarl’s Squad and other junior squads march towards King George V playing field, where the junior galley will meet its fiery end.

With almost 1,000 guisers carrying flaming torches, singing, and celebrating, the senior procession is spectacular.

At 7.30pm streetlights are dimmed, for Up Helly Aa light up. As flares are sparked and the torches are lit an atmospheric glow illuminates the night sky and the Jarl’s Squad marches up the ranks celebrating with all the guisers – so called because they wear disguises.

Only the Jarl’s Squad appears as Vikings but each guiser is part of their own squad and will be dressed to a particular theme – more on that later. Squads put a lot of effort into looking fantastic for Up Helly Aa and you should expect to see the unexpected and the spectacular.

The procession follows a set route, and spectators line the streets to witness the incredible event. From the pavement you’ll feel the heat of the flames, as the procession winds its way past you and will certainly get carried along by the enthusiasm and atmosphere.

It’s worth bearing in mind that it gets busy, and some people pick their spot well in advance. The best advice is to wrap up warm and wear waterproof clothing – there will be no postponement for weather!

At the end of the procession, which lasts around 30 minutes, the galley will be taken into the King George V playing fields and will be surrounded by guisers, each carrying a four-foot flaming torch. It’s a spectacular sight as almost 1,000 flames circle the galley carrying the Guizer Jarl. It’s said to be one of the proudest moments for any Jarl.

Renditions of the Up Helly Aa Song and Galley Song follow, as the Jarl steps out of the galley before the torches are thrown into the galley. The result is a splendid Viking pyre, that sends heat and light upwards – signifying the passing of winter and the return of longer days.

As the galley burns The Norseman’s Home will be sung, before guisers depart and gather at their own squad huts.

If you thought the burning of the galley was the culmination of Up Helly Aa, think again. Dramatic as it is, the fiery procession is just the start of a long night of feasting, dancing, and merriment. It really is an all-night party.

To experience the celebrations, you’ll need to a ticket for one of the Up Helly Aa halls.

There are 11 halls open on Up Helly Aa night, each hosting a private party. It is worth keeping an eye on news websites in the months before Up Helly Aa for announcements about when tickets go on sale. They do sell out, but sometimes returns become available in the run-up to the night so you may get lucky and get a last-minute ticket.

Each hall has its own musicians performing, and guests are encouraged to take part in dancing. There will also be an array of food with warming soups, bannocks, pies, cakes, and fancies to keep everyone fuelled through the night.

And there will be entertainment that is unique to Up Helly Aa. Let’s explain more…

Remember there is only one Jarl’s Squad. Led by the Guizer Jarl it usually comprises around 50 members in Viking finery. All the other squads, about 45 of them with an average of around 20 members, will be dressed in all manner of fancy-dress costumes (or suits, as we like to call them).

As well as looking fabulous, each squad prepares an act. This might be a dance to the biggest tunes of the year, a performance based on popular culture or a skit on local current affairs. One thing is certain, there will be variety! And this show is taken on the road.

Every squad is required to attend every hall, in a specific order, and perform its act for the guests at the respective venues.

To get around the town, squads hire buses and vans so if, at the end of January, you see a mini-bus meandering through Lerwick in the small hours with disco lights and a mobile fancy-dress party, don’t be surprised!

Once at the halls, the squads enter a waiting room before being called onto the dancefloor to perform their act. They stay in the hall afterwards and mingle and dance with the guests, before moving on to the next hall. Spare a thought for the young “fiddle box carriers” who have the task of rounding up squad members and cajoling them along to the next hall.

The squads’ night is not over until they have performed at each of the 11 halls ­– which is usually at breakfast time on Wednesday morning. Up Helly Aa requires lots of stamina.
And then it’s time for rest. You should now understand why the day after Lerwick Up Helly Aa is a Shetland public holiday.

If you're left wondering how that all works - check out our What the Helly Aa? film below.

As the highest profile squad, the Jarl’s Squad also tours the halls performing their own squad song ­– picked by the Guizer Jarl and accompanied by the squad musicians.

After performing, like the other squads, they will also stay at each hall and dance with the guests. This gives ticketholders an excellent opportunity to witness the craftsmanship that goes into creating the suits – and dance with a 21^st-century Viking.

The Jarl’s Squad tours the halls in the opposite direction to all the other squads, giving every other squad the opportunity to hang out with the Vikings during the night.

If it sounds confusing, don’t worry. If you’re lucky enough to get a ticket for a hall, all the squads will come to you – but it will take all night.

And if it sounds chaotic, it is. But it’s organised chaos that runs like clockwork and that’s the biggest part of the fun of Up Helly Aa.

Of course, the main attraction for anyone visiting Lerwick on Up Helly Aa day is the opportunity to mingle with Vikings and watch a spectacular fiery occasion. But there are some other activities to keep you entertained.

In recent years the Shetland Food and Drink Association has hosted an annual Up Helly Aa Food Fair in Mareel, Lerwick's arts venue and cinema. This is held on the Monday immediately before Up Helly Aa, with an excellent array of Shetland produce for you to sample and buy. Check the association's Events page to check the dates.

New in 2024, Shetland Arts and Crafts Association will be hosting an Up Helly Aa craft fair. It will also be held in Mareel on the Sunday before Up Helly Aa (the day before the food fair), providing an opportunity to pick up some of the incredible hand crafted products, lovingly made in Shetland by the association's members.

And on Up Helly Aa day itself, Shetland Arts hosts The Fiery Sessions showcasing some of the extraordinary musical talent found in the islands. It's a good opportunity to take a break from the Up Helly Aa excitement and enjoy some excellent tunes in the afternoon, ahead of the evening procession.

During Lerwick Up Helly Aa week, several heritage sites and museums operated by Shetland Amenity Trust are open.

Shetland Museum and Archives

• The museum enjoys extended opening times is open all week to learn more about all aspects of Shetland's past.
• Origins of Up Helly Aa tours are available from Sunday 28 – Wed 31 January, 2024. Bookings required.
• The Jarl's Squad visit to the museum is always busy and Tuesday is sold out for 2024. The Junior Up Helly Aa galley will be positioned outside the museum at Hay’s Dock from 11.45am – 2.45pm, offering great photo opportunities

Old Scatness Broch & Iron Age Village

The site in Shetland's South Mainland is open on Wednesday 31 January, 2024. There will be three archaeologist-led guided tours throughout the day uncovering the myth and legend of this heritage site. Booking required.

Sumburgh Head Lighthouse visitor centre and nature reserve

The iconic Sumburgh Head Lighthouse at the southernmost point of Shetland's Mainland, is usually closed over winter, but for three days from Wednesday 31 Jan – Friday 2 February, 2024 will be open for visits.