Walk Shetland like a local

With over 1,600 miles of coastline there is no shortage of beaches to explore in Shetland. One of my favourite coastal walks is in Burra, where you can visit three beautiful beaches along the way.

The walk begins in Hamnavoe, a pretty fishing village with incredible views over to the island of Foula. There is parking by the harbour and a well stocked shop if you want to pick up some supplies for your journey. Following the rugged coastal path you will pass the entrance to a large cave where it is said that smugglers once hid their contraband.

From here the path takes you to Meal beach. On a sunny day the white sand and turquoise water looks tropical. Even when the sky is overcast the water retains it’s colour, with shimmering shades of blue and aquamarine. The crystal clear waters attract swimmers from all over Shetland but with water temperatures ranging from 7-14 degrees it can be quite a bracing experience!

The path continues along the shoreline until you reach Sanik beach, a sheltered inlet known locally as ‘the selkie beach’. This is a favourite spot for seals to rest. If you keep a respectful distance, you can watch their interactions and, if you are very lucky, you might even hear them sing!

The next part of the walk is quite steep but offers some fantastic views over the cliffs. In the summer months, it is a wonderful place to see birds of many different species and you might meet some Shetland ponies along the way. The final beach of the walk is Minn, where a stretch of white sand connects to the headland of Kettlaness.

Puffins return to the islands from mid-April. The first birds to arrive are the youngsters, who are soon followed by breeding pairs. Pairs return to the same burrow each year to raise a chick before returning to sea around the start of August. Like many seabirds, puffins choose to nest in places where other birds congregate. It offers them some protection from predators, but it is also great for those of us who love to see these bustling seabird colonies.

One of the best places to see puffins is Sumburgh Head. It is a site that is relatively accessible with parking close to some of the best bird watching sites. Puffins often nest near the top of the cliffs, which makes them very easy to spot. Fences and walls at Sumburgh keep people safe from the steep cliff edges and prevent the birds from being disturbed. Puffins seem remarkably unconcerned by the folk watching them, often coming surprisingly close to the fence! In addition to the puffins, there is an incredible variety of other birds to enjoy. In summer, this place is home to guilliemots, razorbills, fulmar, shags and kittiewakes.

If you need a break from the brisk sea winds, the lighthouse and visitor centre have some fascinating exhibits. Built in 1821, this was the first Stevenson lighthouse in Shetland. You can learn about its history and the keepers who called this lighthouse home, as well as the role it played in the Second World War. Inside the lighthouse, there is a cafe with breathtaking views over the cliffs.

You could quite easily spend a whole day exploring this beautiful place, but if you wanted to walk a bit more, there is a coastal path that leads from Sumburgh to Jarlshof. This is one of our most important archaeological sites. You can see the remains of dwellings from the Neolithic, Bronze Age, Iron Age, a Viking longhouse and the homes of Scottish lairds. There are not many places where you can walk through 4,000 years of history!

History is present throughout Shetland’s landscapes. From the Norse place names offering glimpses of previous inhabitants to the walls of ancient buildings, it is easy to step back into our past on almost any walk! But for a walk that really encompasses our history, I would recommend Underhoull in Unst

Shetland is often called the Viking Isles because of its rich Norse history. Unst is thought to be the first place that the Vikings set foot in Shetland. The village of Haroldswick is named after Harald Fairhair, who is said to have landed here in the 9^th century. The remains of around 60 longhouses have been found on this island alone, the highest concentration anywhere in the world.

A lovely walk is Underhoull along the coast towards the Lund Chapel. There is parking in a layby opposite Underhoull. At the very start of the walk, you can see the upper longhouse. Excavations of this house concluded that it had been occupied for many generations, with each adapting the building to meet their needs, adding additional rooms and barns.

Pottery fragments, spindle whorls and line sinkers found here gave archaeologists insights into the daily lives and activities of the folk who once lived here. Interpretive boards at this, and many other sites along the walk, provide detailed information about the history that surrounds you. Close to the upper longhouse is the Underhoul broch. Brochs date to the mid Iron Age and would usually have stood around 10 metres tall. Archaeologists still debate whether these were primarily defensive buildings or used by landowners to show their power. Many believe that both explanations have some truth in them. To the side of this broch is a structure believed to have once been a Viking chapel.

A little past the broch are some small field systems thought to date back to the Iron Age and a second longhouse. The walk then continues along the beautiful coastline until you reach an area with several mounds. The shape and position of these suggest they might have been Viking burial mounds. The next point of historical interest is St Olaf's Kirk, also known as Lund Chapel. In the grounds of this 12th-century church are some distinctive Viking stone crosses.

At this point in the walk, you can retrace your steps back to the car park near the broch or walk back along the road. If you want to explore a little more history, you can follow the path inland to explore three more longhouses. It is well worth making a stop at the replica Viking longhouse and longship near Haroldswick. The design of the longhouse used excavations of Unst sites to recreate what these dwellings might have been like inside. Next to it is the spectacular Skidbladner, a full-size replica longship. Its design is based on the Gokstad, a ship discovered in a Norwegian burial mound.

Shetland has the highest density of otters in Europe. Usually, the European otter is found inland, fishing in rivers and lochs, but our otters are most often seen on beaches or in the sea. There are thought to be around 1,000 otters living across the Shetland coastline and so you can see them just about anywhere.

Despite the high numbers, they are elusive and seeing them can take some time and patience. The most important thing is to be alert for signs around you, movements in the water or the high-pitched squeak of otter babies.

A lovely walk where you might glimpse an otter is at Mavis Grind. This narrow strip of land between the north and central mainland is a fantastic place to explore. There is plenty of room for parking. From this spot, you can see both the North Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, and it is said that the distance between them is so small that you could throw a stone from one to the other.

Through the gate, there are interpretive boards telling you about the history and geology of the area and a fascinating wall containing the range of stones found in the North Mainland. There is a picnic bench here and this is a really good place to sit and look out for otters.

A path follows the water’s edge and, after around a mile, you find a Neolithic chambered cairn opposite the Holm of Culsetter. The path is quite steep in places and there are stiles to cross, but the views are truly breathtaking. Although the core path ends at the cairn, you can continue walking along the coastline along the well-trodden sheep paths that crisscross this landscape.

As the days lengthen and the weather starts to get a little warmer, it is time to think about picnics! I love to stop at one of our wonderful cake fridges to get a treat for a walk. The Original Cake Fridge near Aith offers a wide selection of cakes and hot drinks. The indoor cafe is perfect for a rainy day, but there is nothing better than getting some supplies and having a walk at the nearby Burn o'Lunklet.

This small river winds its way down from the hills and has many sheltered places to sit along the way. There is easy parking at the fridge and directly across the road from the burn. The riverside path can be quite muddy in places, so it is best to wear sturdy boots and to take care on slippery surfaces. During spring and summer, the surrounding hills are filled with wildflowers and the sound of skylarks.

The most dramatic part of the walk is the waterfall called Ramnahol, which means ‘pool of ravens’ in Norn. If you sit here a while on the stones by the water’s edge, you might well see some ravens fly overhead. I love it when the old names in the landscape still resonate with lives lived here today.

The Picnic Press near Dunrossness is another wonderful cake fridge offering a wide selection of treats. The views from this place are incredible and there is a picnic table here so you can have a seat and enjoy your cake. There are plenty of other beautiful places nearby to enjoy a picnic.

I would recommend Levenwick beach. It is just a couple of miles down the road from the cake fridge and is a lovely sheltered spot.