The story of Shetland wool

There are few materials more closely woven into the fabric of a place than Shetland wool. From hill crofts to catwalks, this fine, resilient fibre has told the story of an island and its people for generations. But what is it that makes Shetland wool so special? And why, in a world of fast fashion and synthetic fibres, does it continue to hold such a cherished place in the hearts of makers and wearers alike?

To answer that, I spoke to four people whose lives and work are intimately tied to Shetland wool: Ronnie Eunson, crofter and writer at Uradale Farm; Oliver Henry, wool grader and broker at Jamieson & Smith; Donna Smith, natural dyer and designer based in Burra; and Terri Laura Leask, a knitter and teacher dedicated to preserving Fair Isle traditions.

There's something special about Sheltand wool, and Ronnie Eunson believes it starts with the sheep themselves.

"Native Shetland sheep, as part of the Northern Short-tailed breed, have evolved on Shetland since Neolithic times," he says. "The 5,000 years of history makes this breed distinctive. No other breed of sheep has the exceptional abilities to cope with this environment."

That environment – wind-swept hills, salt-laden air, and hardy grazing – produces wool that is remarkably fine, warm, and durable.

As Oliver Henry of Jamieson & Smith puts it: "The wool itself is what makes Shetland wool so unique, there's nothing else like it!"

At Jamieson & Smith, Oliver has seen over 80 per cent of Shetland's wool clip pass through their doors.

"We grade and sort the wool at North Road [in Lerwick], and only the finest wool goes into our yarns," he explains. "We then ship the raw wool to the mainland where it's commission spun to our requirements – from Cobweb up to Aran weight."

That journey from fleece to finished garment is something Donna Smith has come to know intimately.

Living on her family's croft in Burra, she launched Langsoond Yarn using fleece from her own sheep and those of neighbours. "Shetland wool is such an amazing product," she says. "It's soft, strong and very warm but light to wear... garments that have been worn for many years can still look brand new."

It hasn’t always been easy. As Oliver notes, "From the 1960s until the early 2000s the demand for wool was low, therefore the price was also very low." But things have changed.

With a growing global appetite for natural fibres and a hunger for traceable, sustainable textiles, Shetland wool is back in the spotlight.

"Knitting in general has increased in popularity over the past decade or two," says Donna, "and people have become increasingly aware of the provenance of the yarn they are using."

Shetland Wool Week, which Oliver helped launch in 2010, has played no small part. "It has gone on to change Shetland and its reputation as a mecca for textiles," he says.

Each year, Wool Week attendees receive a pattern for a unique hat, to be knitted and worn at that year's event. One of Oliver's standout memories is looking out over a sea of 'Roadside Beanies 'at the 2019 opening – a design that told his own life story in wool.

For designer and teacher Terri Laura Leask, Shetland wool is a living tradition. "The versatility of Shetland wool has ensured it is a material that has never been forgotten," she says.

"It can be spun into any weight, it felts at a manageable rate, and it even holds nutrients well if you decide to use it to fertilise your soil. The possibilities seem endless."

But beyond its physical qualities, it's the community around the wool that continues to inspire her. "I'm extremely proud to come from a family packed with crofters and craftspeople," she says, reflecting on a legacy that includes knitters, weavers, and entrepreneurs. She's now archiving the work of her grandmother, Wilma Malcolmson, and continuing the family tradition.

As a designer, Terri Laura knows the importance of specifying Shetland wool in her patterns. "It allows for longer floats (the strand on the back of the fabric where one colour is not in use), it felts in a predictable way... these are all important factors a designer must consider.”

All four of the wool experts I spoke to agreed on one thing: contemporary designers and crofters have a vital role to play in safeguarding Shetland's textile heritage.

"Shetland crofters are very like their sheep," says Oliver. "Very resilient in the face of adversity."

Terri Laura agrees, adding: "We must speak up more about the value of our Shetland wool. It’s important that Shetland designers and makers continue to stay in touch, collaborate, and stand united to ensure the traditions remain rooted in Shetland."

Back at Uradale, Ronnie reflects on how far things have come. "Once it was hand shearing thousands of sheep and getting a pittance for the fleeces," he recalls. "Now we spin and sell our own yarn, telling its history, welcoming visitors, and revealing its true identity."

Shetland wool has always told a story of place, of people, and of perseverance. And thanks to the passion and pride of those who work with it, that story is still being written.