Shetland's Vikings provide a heart-warming spectacle for all the family

It was a wild night, a cold wind whipped through the streets of Lerwick and the waiting crowds were wrapped up against the weather. “So many people”, Rohan whispered to me a little shyly, looking at all the faces around him. Finn, despite wearing so many clothes that he appeared spherical, began to say that he was cold and wanted to go back home. “Just wait a moment, it will warm up soon,” I assured him.

Suddenly the streetlights went out and the crowd fell silent. The Jarl’s Squad began to leave the town hall, gathering in groups by the road. Their costumes were incredible, each suit in shades of red with a raven, wings outstretched, across the breastplate. Shining silver axes, red shields with ornate silver dragons in the centre and red raven banners held high in the air. Their winged helmets were adorned with sleek, dark raven feathers. A flare went off and the Viking’s torches were lit. The silver detail of their costumes coming alive in the dancing firelight.

“Remember, littler people in front of you,” the woman next to me said to her daughter, ushering Rohan and Finn forward for a closer view. They seemed so small as they held hands watching and I wondered how it must seem to them, familiar streets filled with crowds, the darkness and now Vikings. I smiled, knowing that as they get older, fire festivals will almost certainly become a familiar part of their winters. We are lucky here to have this extra celebration.

For the past few weeks, the bairns have been coming home from school and nursery overflowing with stories of Vikings and fire. Bringing home pictures of burning galleys and singing the Up Helly Aa song. Because of previous years cancellations due to Covid and being unable to take Rohan the year before, this was their first Up Helly Aa, and everybody was very excited. “Hello Rohan,” a voice called.

It was a teacher from his school and as Rohan jumped up and down, excitedly telling her about the fire Vikings, she said she knew just the place to stand. Rohan eagerly took her hand and we walked a short distance to the library. She explained that her family stands here every year at Up Helly Aa and that the younger ones can get a great view if they go up on the wall.

We got into position just in time as, all along the Hillhead, the guizers lit their torches. Within seconds the cold and darkness was replaced with warmth and light. The line of fire stretched beyond what we could see, giving the impression of an unending stream of light. The wind caught the torches, causing the flames to roar as sparks spiralled up into the darkness.

As the band began to play the guizers – and many in the crowd – joined in, and the procession began. For the first few minutes both children were absolutely silent, staring at the spectacle in front of them.

“The boat has a beard!” Rohan whispered in delight as the galley, with the Guizer Jarl standing proudly aboard, passed us. Gradually as their shock subsided and their excitement grew, they began to point out their favourite costumes “Look! That man is dressed as a traffic cone!”, “Shiny rainbow people!”, “a bear!”.

I heard similar calls from all around me and realised just how many children were there. From babies in prams, toddlers on shoulders and teenagers standing in groups, it seemed like most of Shetland’s young folk had come to enjoy the celebration. As people recognised family, friends and neighbours in the parade, they shouted and waved and greetings flowed between the guizers and the crowd.

As the procession finished its loops around and went towards the burning site, we followed. A few Vikings stood by the roadside, keeping the crowds back at a safe distance. The wind had picked up considerably and sparks flew at speed towards the crowds. I worried for a moment that the children might find it scary. One of the Vikings, obviously sharing my concern, offered to act as a human shield, sheltering them from the fire. Our worries proved unfounded, however. This seemed to add to their excitement and instead of the kids hiding from the sparks I had to stop them from chasing them!

The guizers streamed into the park. It is only then that the true number of torches became apparent. Often there are around 1,000. Seeing them all in this small space, circling a galley, was an incredible sight. The bairns were silent again, watching. I took turns lifting them high so they could see. A voice rose through the crowd: “Three cheers for Up Helly Aa!”, “Three cheers for the Guizer Jarl”. They cheered along with the crowd as the torches flew towards the galley. It was ablaze in seconds, the wind carrying the flames high.

“I can’t wait until next year!” Rohan said as Finn shouted “Vikings!” I smiled, delighted they had enjoyed it despite the cold and being up well past bedtime. As I sat writing this the morning after, they came through asking for “sticks, red things and costumes to make us rainbows”. I gave them what I could find and they are now busy in Rohan’s room. I heard occasional shouts of “fire Vikings!” and “burn the galley!”, so it seems the night made quite the impression on them.