Shetland's First World War heritage sites

Overlooking the southern entrance to Lerwick, a First World War coastal battery still guards this sea approach into the island capital. The battery was installed in late 1917 to protect the southern approach of Lerwick from seaborne raids via Bressay Sound.

Throughout 1914-18 in Britain, a network of similar batteries was installed, representing the national endeavour to protect and defend the United Kingdom during the First World War. This acts as a reminder that the war was very much on the Home Front, as well as on distant shores.

In November 1914, Lerwick was established as an examination port and base for auxiliary patrol vessels. Foreign ships were searched to ensure they were not carrying goods to Germany. The harbour also became a mustering point for ships as part of the convoy system.

Given the increased importance of this role, two 4:7 Mark IV guns that were landed from H.M.S. Brilliant. She was based in Lerwick serving as a depot ship for trawlers and patrol boats of the Auxiliary Patrol.

The western gun emplacement is situated at the south end of the Knab Road. It is now a viewpoint providing stunning views to the south of Bressay sound. It also contains an interpretative site. The turf base upon which the gun emplacement was located is visible beneath the viewpoint.

The eastern gun emplacement is situated on headland. To reach it go through the gate heading eastward down the Knab path. The gun emplacement is immediately on your left. It is in remarkable condition, and contains the gun emplacement base, adjacent munitions store, connected blast bank and concrete hut, which can be accessed via a passge.

During World War Two, with the new threat of aircraft raids, the site was re-armed with Bofurs Guns. All of this provides a reminder of the important strategic role Shetland had during both wars.

Sources:- ADM 137-1894 Commander in Chief, Grand Fleet, 1914-1918; Historic Environment Scotland.

Situated in the centre of Lerwick, guarding the interior of town and harbour is Fort Charlotte.

The Fort itself has a rich history, originally being constructed to defend Bressay Sound (the waterway between Lerwick and the island of Bressay) against Dutch, then subsequently French war ships.

It was named Fort Charlotte after George III's wife Queen Charlotte. A practice battery was situated within the Fort where the Royal Naval Reserve (RNR) worked on their gunnery skills.

In 1904, following the stopping of gunnery drill at the Fort, these guns were dumped in Lerwick Harbour. The RNR then undertook their gunnery drill on board ships.

The Fort facilitated drill for RNR, up until 1910. The Shetland News, April 1st, 1905 noted that "about 1,000 men have undergone their annual course of training, while a large number of young men went south for their three month's training on board ships".

Training for these men at Fort Charlotte in Lerwick was often fitted around other duties: crofting, fishing and the Merchant Navy.

Drill began at Fort Charlotte again with the outbreak of war in August, 1914. The RNR, Shetland Section, was the first to be called up and ordered to report to their headquarters in Lerwick. Hundreds of men began arriving into Lerwick from nearly every district in Shetland.

It was from the sea that most of Shetland’s men served. In an island so connected to the sea, it was instinctive that most Shetland men opted to serve at sea. An Admiralty Letter: August 7th stated: "Started R.N.R. men drilling in Fort. 200 men on parade. Found various working parties as required. Drill a.m. 9 till 12, p.m. 2 to 4. Afternoon issued rifles and equipment".

War duties for these men included manning watch huts which were built on the higher hills and manned 24 hours a day, to be on the lookout for submarines. Thirty-three such stations were recorded to be built in January, 1914.

Gun crews were mobilised from the far north to the far south of the islands to react to possible submarine attacks. At the same time, island fishing boats were requisitioned by the Navy to patrol the coastline for mines and submarines. On 28th October, 1914, 213 of the old RNR men left for Portsmouth.

Originally, men who enlisted in the Shetland RNR were not liable for service ‘off island’, other than for training. They were in effect coast watchers.

This began to change somewhat during 1915 when the island men were requested to volunteer for general service. The Armed Boarding Steamer HMS Vienna arrived at the port of Lerwick on 22 July 1915 to transport 159 men from the RNR Shetland Section who had volunteered for general Royal Naval service.

Further detachments of RNR men left the islands in July, 1916. It was Fort Charlotte which was very much their 'Shetland base'.

The old Drill Hall in Fort Charlotte was fitted up for living quarters of the RNR Garrison during the war and divided off by partitions into several rooms. The buildings next to the west gate of the Fort were utilised as RNR Offices.

In September 1915, Fort Charlotte hosted a Military Tattoo in its parade ground which included R.N.R. bayonet drill, marching to drum and bagpipes, and last post, with lanterns in the evening.

Sources: ADM 116/1830 Shetland Naval Reserve; ADM 137-1894 Defence of Shetland; John Henderson; The Shetland News, 5^th December, 1914; The Shetland News, 4^th September, 1915.

A right turn from the B9075 past Nesting shop will take you to RAF Catfirth.

During World War I, this was the most northerly air station in Britain, which was the destination of the first flight to Shetland, estimated to have taken place in early June 1918.

With the constant threat of German submarines, Catfirth was chosen as an air station as it offered a sheltered anchorage. Thousands of mines had been laid between Orkney and Norway to stall German submarines from reaching the Atlantic Ocean.

The seaplanes to be based at Catfirth had the role of patrolling on the east side of Shetland, and south to Fair Isle as part of this defence.

Construction of the site commenced during the winter months of 1917-18. It was planned to house over 700 personnel and 18 aircraft, but ultimately, 450 men and five aircraft were located there. All the same, the arrival of so many had a big impact on the local community.

There were two types of seaplanes which saw service: Porte Boats and Felixstowe F3s.

Infrastructure at the air station included cutting-edge technology of the time, wireless communication. However, pigeons were also carried on board the seaplanes in case the wireless system failed. Lerwick base records recorded the building of the base on 20th March 1918, including the slipway, winch house, workshop, engine testing house, seaplane shed and living quarters.

Recently, the final billet 'footprint' buildings on the Catfirth site were demolished to make way for a nearby housing development. Nevertheless, the site's impression can still be understood through a wonderful display panel at the entrance, as well as some key structures that remain.

This includes the ramp for the flying boats, the slipway and the concrete ramp for the seaplanes. To the south of this is a detonator store and magazine.

A look at the area Google Earth will also show you the template of the billet buildings.

Although little is visible, it is easy to imagine this location as it was in operation. A walk down the site towards the shore, you will pass on the right-hand side what would have been an oil and petrol store, as well as a powerhouse.

Sources:- Nesting History Group. RAF Catfirth 1918, Simon Gun. Bassman Books, 2018. TNA: ADM 137-2249, Lerwick Base Records, 1917-19.

Given the strategic importance of the Shetland geographical position, guarding access to the Atlantic Ocean and the North Sea led to advanced naval base activity around Shetland shores.

The General Base was at Lerwick, while to the north of Shetland, near the village of Brae, is the sheltered anchorage of Swaarbacks Minn. It was here that the Northern Base for the 10th Cruiser Squadron was situated. Adjacent bays and voes were used in connection with this operation.

The 10th Cruiser Squadron was responsible for maintaining a naval blockade of German seaborne trade to the north of Britain. It was also referred to sometimes as the 'Northern Patrol'. This squadron incorporated some 40 old cruisers and armed merchant cruisers and was crewed by almost 10,000 men.

Admiral Dudley De Chair arrived in Lerwick on 15th August 1914 to take command of the Cruiser Squadron. This northern base was important as it saved on coal being used by avoiding long journeys back to the Clyde or the Mersey. Moreover, a base in Shetland could maximise patrol time for the squadron.

De Chair also found defences in Shetland were not up to standard, so he had eight guns put ashore from cruisers. Two were stationed in Lerwick, the others for use by the coast watchers

The 10th Cruiser Squadron's duties included preventing contraband goods from reaching Germany and destroying any warships encountered before a potential enemy landing in Shetland. The operational strategy of the Squadron was to intercept and board merchant ships. Any holding suspicious cargoes would be moved to port for further examination.

The German merchant fleet was no longer operational by the end of August 1914. Nevertheless, neutral countries and ships continued to trade. During 1915, the Squadron intercepted 3,098 ships and sent in 743 for examination.

A further main role of the Squadron was to prevent raiders from getting into the Atlantic.

Rear Admiral W.B. Fawckner, used Busta House – now a hotel – as his shore headquarters while temporarily in command of the Squadron. The adjacent pier was extended. Further south, the Voe Bakery was established at the order of the Royal Navy. The bakery is still in business.

In April 1916, Brentham House in Lerwick became the headquarters. There, women were employed as typists and telegraphists while Boy Scouts undertook duties as Runners.

Sources:- Shetland and the Great War. Linda K Riddell; Operations of the Tenth Cruiser Squadron. Terence Dawson; ADM 137 2250. Swarback Minn Base Records.

When walking past the County War Memorial on the Hillhead in Lerwick, it is always important to stop and reflect on the names on its panels.

The memorial itself is one of the most prominent structures standing in the centre of Lerwick. Listed on it are the names of 624 men from Shetland who did not return from the Great War.

Over 4,000 island men had served in the armed forces. Many of them were brothers – each story is one of war, very often in faraway locations.

The design of the County War Memorial was agreed in early 1922, having been discussed by a committee formed by Zetland County and Lerwick Town Councils.

Other designs had been put forward. However, it was Edinburgh-based architect Sir Robert Lorimer's second design that was taken forward. Lorimer was also responsible for the Scottish National War Memorial in Edinburgh and the Portsmouth Naval Memorial.

It fell to a bereaved mother, Janet [Jessie] Hardy, from Wadbister Shetland, alongside her husband Thomas to unveil the Memorial on January 6th, 1924. They had lost three sons.

The Shetland Times noted that Mrs Hardie "in the midst of solemn silence, pulled down the flags and the Shetland Memorial stood unveiled". A large crowd assembled that day, including many children, relatives of the fallen and public bodies.

With the sounding of the Last Post, many wreaths were laid by people of the country districts, Zetland County Council, Lerwick Town Council, ex-servicemen and the Shetland Education Authority.

The Hardys' son Thomas was the second Shetlander killed on the Western Front in 1914, serving with the 2nd Battalion Gordon Highlanders. His Battalion provided support against a German attack at Zandvoorde on the 30th October during the First Battle of Ypres. It was during this period that Thomas was mortally wounded. He died on the 1st of November, 1914.

A letter by Thomas was received by The Shetland Times shortly before his death and published after his loss.

I can’t say this is life – it is mere existence. The guns are thundering and shells bursting everywhere. As I am writing, the enemy are attacking to our left, about a mile away, as I hear the maxims and terrific rifle fire. We have held this position almost a week under terrible artillery fire.

Thomas's name is on the Menin Gate Memorial in Ypres, which lists over 54,000 soldiers who died in Belgium with no known grave.

Charles Hardy served with the Mercantile Marine. He was lost via the torpedoing of his ship, on ss North Wales which had left Hull, bound for Canada, October 1916. He is commemorated on Tower Hill Memorial.

Younger brother William, also with the Mercantile Marine, served on the SS Bylands. He was accidentally drowned at Calcutta in March 1917.

Sources: Shetland Archives; Shetland Roll of Honour and Service. T. Manson; The Shetland Times, January 12th, 1924; The Shetland Times November 14, 1914; The Shetland Times, November 28, 1914; 'Brothers of the First World War. The Hardy Family' Shetland Life, November 2019.

What we know as the "Garrison Theatre" is one of Lerwick's most historic and special buildings, given its role during World War Two. However, it is a building with a story most closely tied to Lerwick and the First World War and its role as "The Drill Hall". It’s here that our own almost 'Pals Battalion', of the local Territorial Companies, trained, socialised and formed personal bonds in the years before the outbreak of war in 1914. Many worked together, grew up together, and in some cases fought and died together.

In 1900, the Shetland Volunteers reformed, and the War Office gave permission for a Volunteer Battalion, an infantry unit, to be set up in the islands. Originally, the authorised strength was for a half-battalion of three companies comprising 348 officers and men, with two companies and headquarters at Lerwick and one company at Scalloway. The title was the 7th Volunteer Battalion, The Gordon Highlanders, and for administration was attached to the 1st Volunteer Battalion, The Gordon Highlanders, at Aberdeen. Meetings were originally held in Fort Charlotte, but the requirement for a Drill Hall was agreed.

The building was designed in 1903 and completed in 1904 by the architect, William Arthur Baird Laing, to serve initially as the Volunteer Headquarters. It provided a Drill Hall and Gymnasium for the 7th Volunteer Battalion Gordon Highlanders. The local Volunteer Corps, later to become the Territorial Companies. The Territorial and Reserve Forces Act 1907 (known as the Haldane Reforms after the Secretary of State for War, Richard Haldane) came into force in 1908. Consequently, various Volunteer Units were consolidated to form the Territorial Force, an important component of Lerwick's social, civic and community identity.
A crucial element of this was the Drill Hall building, with volunteer halls built throughout Britain, often serving as the headquarters of a battalion.

In Lerwick, the foundation stone was laid on 22nd July 1903 by Captain Commandant Moffatt and the building was officially opened by the Vice-Admiral Lord Charles Beresford on 17th September 1904, with the arrival of four vessels of the British Channel Fleet. On arrival at the Drill Hall Lord Beresford carried out the opening ceremony and was afterwords entertained by the Battalion. The following Sunday almost a hundred of the Volunteers accepted Lord Beresford's invitation to visit the Flagship.

The local press recorded that, "The success of the Volunteer movement is practically exhibited in the excellent and well-equipped building now finished.”

The “Shetland Companies” as they were officially titled came into being although reduced to two companies being based at Lerwick with outposts at various locations around the island.

The Drill Hall was central base for these local men. Here they gathered upon the outbreak of war in August 1914. The local Territorial's undertook local war related defence duties before over 200 departed Shetland for war on SS Cambria in June 1915, saying last goodbyes to their families.
The local Territorials were dispersed into mainly the 7th Battalion, Gordon Highlanders during the war. Many of them did not return. Nineteen local Gordon Highlanders, mostly Territorials, died at the Battle of the Ancre in 1916, with many others killed in subsequent battles of 1914-18, including Arras and Ypres.

Sources: Dennis Rollo, The Military History of Shetland, 1650, 1960. D50/1. p.171; 'Grim Red Dawn'. Jon Sandison. [Shetland Library, 2018]; Gordon Highlanders Museum; Historic Environment Scotland; Scotland's Drill Halls. Preliminary Report. April 2015. Historical Scotland; Shetland Museum and Archives; The Shetland News, Saturday, September 10th, 1904; The Shetland Times, February 13th, 1904; The Shetland Times, Saturday July 9th, 1904; The Shetland Times, Saturday September 10th , 1904; The Shetland Times, Saturday, December 2nd, 1916.

The island of Bressay has always provided natural shelter for Lerwick, and acted as an important part of the defence of the island capital. This was no different during World War One with warships and adjacent war sea traffic regularly taking berth in Bressay Sound.

From the outset of the war, Lerwick was an important port for the control and inspection of neutral merchant ships leaving and entering the North Sea. Unarmed merchant ships, especially those at anchor were vulnerable to enemy attack.

As the war progressed, concern continued to grow that Lerwick might be attacked, and this was reflected via Naval Documentation: "The Defence of the Shetlands [sic] is primarily dependent upon the defence of Lerwick, and as the latter requires mobility in the small forces available to meet attacks from North Entrance, South Entrance or from landward, the organisation for the defence of Lerwick is, as a general rule, suitable and efficient for meeting a landing raid elsewhere".

"The fact that Lerwick can be bombarded should not be overlooked as the protection of neutral waters is afforded to the hostile force within 180 miles....Two 6" guns are about to be mounted on Bressay Island, to provide additional protection against small hostile craft".

In April 1918 therefore, south and north entrances to Lerwick were equipped with Mark VII 6-inch breech loading guns on the stunning Bard and Aith's Voe coastal points on Bressay.

Two unusual aspects have been cited in relation to the placing of the guns. The first is that there is no visible sign of a battery observation post or range finder. Therefore, hitting an enemy vessel would have been extremely difficult. Secondly, the guns were mounted singly and installed late in the war. Each gun was manned by Royal Marines.

There is little doubt that both guns were installed with the defence of the approaches Lerwick harbour in mind. In October 1917, close to Shetland's coast, the Germans were able to destroy an entire convoy, despite it having the protection of Royal Navy destroyers. Both guns were put into position not long after the German Spring Offensive of March, 1918. Naval concern had increased that Lerwick could be bombarded. Although the German High Seas Fleet was confined to harbour, perhaps there was concern of a large raid via the North Sea. The distance of the islands from mainland Britain also played a factor.

The gun to the south at Bard Head is situated on a breathtaking position, on top of a sheer cliff around 225 feet (70m) above the sea. With heather, sometimes boggy ground en route, it is a more challenging walk than the Aith's Voe position, accessible via The Ord, Ward of Bressay, or Loch of Grimsetter; but worth it. The views to the south and west over to Noss are spectacular.

The gun to the north at Aith Ness is a much less challenging visit on foot, accessible via a track most of the way from Bruntland. It has a very different, but equally spectacular, vantage point to the north of Shetland. The Royal Navy raised both guns into position.

In all, 116 men were required to winch it up the cliffs, with the guns manned by an artillery crew of the Royal Marines. Both guns were never fired in anger but underwent regular training exercises. Jimmy Yates, a local man, could remember as a young boy on his way home from school in 1918 the gun being fired repeatedly on practice. A telephone line was also run between Bressay Post Office and the Bard via War Hill. Next to both guns, ammunition bunker are still in place.

In terms of the precious military heritage of Shetland we can be thankful that due to the remote of both guns, they survived post war scrapping then, and can avoid modern development. Both guns still remain in excellent condition to this day.

Sources: ADM 137-1894 Defence of Shetland. Commander in Chief, Grand Fleet, 1914-1918; Bressay Heritage Centre; Historic Environment Scotland; Shetland and the Great War. Linda K Riddell;The Guns of Shetland: The Coast Defence Batteries. Bill Clements; Fortress Study Group.

Anderhill Tower is a remarkable spot. On a clear day, it gives you access to stunning panoramic views to the north and south of Bressay, and a vantage point to see the gun positions at Aith Ness and the Bard Head. There is a clear sight across to Lerwick in the west, and then over to the beautiful island of Noss to the east, as well as the open expanse of the North Sea behind it.

From Mainland Shetland, Anderhill Tower can still be viewed from Fort Charlotte in Lerwick, and is one of the key Shetland landmarks on the east side of Shetland. It is no surprise that this was an important viewing spot to be exploited during the First World War.

In February 1910, it was recorded that plans for a new Admiralty Coastguard station were underway. At this stage, however, a site to the north was being considered.

The Shetland News reported in February 1910 about a 'Proposed Coastguard Station at East side of Bressay'.

“We understand that a proposal has been made to erect a coastguard station on the east side of Bressay. What is thought to be the most likely site is the northern extremity of Loder Head, which lies north of Noss Island. If the station is erected there, the coastguards will be able to see several vessels approaching from both north and south. It is stated that the station proposed to be erected will be similar to the one at the Knab. ”

Although the site was to be altered, the need to position a coastguard station in this area was clear. The Garth Estate in Bressay granted a 21-year lease for 1/4 acre of the ground on top of Anderhill to the Admiralty to "erect thereon the buildings and apparatus necessary for the purposes of a war Signal Station".

With continued concern about control of the seas, an Admiralty Signal station was completed in 1912 on Anderhill. It was a key Observation point enabling a commanding view of the ocean and Lerwick Harbour.

Construction began in November 1911. A new signal mast was in place by June 1913. The station eventually built was a two-story tower with an observation platform on the roof for the Coastguard Signal Crew who operated it before World War One.

Little is known about the earliest role of the tower or the personnel who controlled it, given the secrecy which surrounded such installations, not least in time of war. Sources indicate that the War Signal Crew were in regular communication with the Coastguard Headquarters at Fort Charlotte prior to the First World War, using semaphore and Morse signalling.

With the ensuing naval race between Britain and Germany, observation of the ocean surrounding Shetland became increasingly important, not least to protect the access to Lerwick. The island of Bressay, as ever, provided that protection.

In August 1912, the visit of British warships to Lerwick was recorded with the arrival of the armoured cruiser Achilles.

“On Sunday afternoon from Kirkwall, having on board the Right Hon. George Lambert, M.P...Civil Lord of the Admiralty. Mr Lambert was on shore during the evening, and inspected t:ie site of the proposed wireless station at Trebister. He was to have driven from Hoversta to the Ander Hill and inspected the new War Signal Station there, but was prevented from doing so owing to the very wet nature of the weather. The role of a war signal station was to intercept German naval and diplomatic communications. ”

With the outbreak of war in 1914, Anderhill was used as a Wireless Telegraph station. An electric generator and wireless equipment were landed from HMS Forward on 3rd August to Anderhill.

By the end of November, the Wireless Telegraphy, Secret Station was in operation on Anderhill, connected by a telegraph system. Sections of the R.N.R. manned lookout stations throughout the Shetland and some guarded the Wireless Telegraph station on Anderhill.

In March 1918, moves were made to install a signal search light on Anderhill, with the intention of fixing with Sumburgh head and sweeping the channel for navigational purposes, and to assist convoys using Lerwick Harbour.

Sources: ADM 137 1448. Orkney and Shetland Auxiliary Patrol. Prt.2; Archaeology Shetland. Site in Focus; Bressay Heritage Centre; Shetland Archives D50/26/1/14 Transcript of Captain Mitchell's notes about guards, wireless station, HQ Guard, 1914-1915; The Shetland News, Saturday, February 26th, 1910; The Shetland News, Saturday, June 14th, 1913; The Shetland Times - Saturday, November 4th, 1911; The Shetland news, Saturday, August 24th, 1912; The Shetland Times, Saturday, August 8th, 1914; The Shetland Times, Saturday, October 21st, 1911.

The First World War gun emplacement on the beautiful island of Vementry was put in place to protect the deepwater anchorage of Swarbacks Minn, utilised by the 10th Cruiser Squadron.

The guns were brought ashore from HMS Gibraltar, which had become the depot and repair ship, while booms were positioned to protect the entrance between Muckle Roe and Vementry. Extra lookout posts were also established.

The two Guns of Vementry stand tall on the headland against the seascape overlooking the entrance and are mounted on concrete on top of Swarbacks Head, standing at 160 feet above sea level, with only the concrete platforms and an 18-inch concrete parapet and their shields as any form of protection.

Adjacent to the guns are two ready-to-use ammunition lockers built into the parapet of each gun platform. Each platform is connected to a separate magazine by a trench lined with a dry-stone wall. They were manned by Royal Marines.

A secret memorandum, dated January 2^nd 1918, from the Admiral Commanding Orkney and Shetland to the Commander-in-Chief of the Grand Fleet gave the following detail, concerning the removal of HMS Brilliant from Swarbacks Minn:

"In compliance with Admiralty Telegram 2100 of December 29th 1917, I have reviewed the question of the removal of "BRILLIANT" from the Shetlands [sic], and I am of the opinion that "BRILLIANT" can be released from her proposed service at Swarbacks Minn, and that no other large vessel will be required in her place provided.. the following arrangements are made:

Two 6''guns be mounted at once on Muckle Roe, these being taken from ''Gibraltar'', the work of mounting the guns to be taken in hand at once. I consider that it is more satisfactory to have both guns under one control.''

Defence of Shetland Documentation, 1918, recorded the following:

The following arrangements have been made for the Defence of Swarbacks Minn sub-Base :-

• The Emergency Signal will be made from the Flagstaff viz. TWO Red Lights.
• The seventeen Marines stationed at Vementry will be in charge of the Gunner.
• The Boom Defence Vessels will be on the alert, and all Armed Vessels will proceed to the Boom; one vessel will convey the Senior Naval Officer, and Lieutenant McDonnell will proceed in the "Glenogil" and await orders.
• The Assistant Paymaster will guard all Confidential Books.
• In the event of fire at Busta or Olna the Fire Party will attend under Lieutenant Rennels.

On the side of the hill away from the cliff, there was a wooden accommodation hut of which only the concrete foundation posts remain. It was from this side that the battery was approached from a small landing place on the shore below.

Supplies were landed here, and the remains of a pulley system are close to the guns. A command post, in the form of a circular pill box constructed of stone and with a thin concrete roof, is situated to the east guns on a high point.

Like the guns on Bressay, they were never removed after the First World War because of their remote location. They remain open to the elements, and this constantly has an impact on their condition; they must be protected and valued for future generations.

Vementry is one of Shetland's most beautiful islands and deserves special care if visiting. Local arrangements will have to be made to get there. This involves travelling to Vementry Farm on the Mainland, crossing to the island and then walking cross-country for about an hour and a half. The end visit is worth it.

Sources: TNA. 137_1894. Defence of Shetland, 1918; TNA. ADM 137)448. Orkney and Shetland Auxiliary Patrol, Prt 2; The Guns of Shetland: The Coast Defence Batteries. Bill Clements. Fortress Study Group; Shetland and the Great War. Linda K Riddell.

Walking into the top of Lerwick Cemetery, you will instantly see the Cross of Sacrifice on your right-hand side. It overlooks the most special view in Lerwick, stretching out to the south of Bressay Sound, and the grand entrance to the harbour.

This part of Lerwick was, and still is, a popular spot for walks and for viewing boats arriving and departing the island capital. The cemetery is also a spot for reflection.

The Cross of Sacrifice, designed by Sir Reginald Blomfield, is a stone cross with a downward-sword motif. It reflects the faith of the majority of those commemorated in the cemetery by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC). Initially known simply as the ‘Great Cross’, it later became known as the Cross of Sacrifice. It is symbolic as the cross is usually found in CWGC sites with over 40 commemorations.

The size varies depending on the size of the cemetery. This is the only one in Shetland, reflecting the number of burials in Lerwick Cemetery from World War I. In the cemetery, there are 117 burial sites of service personnel from the Great War of 1914-18.

The inscription on the Cross of Sacrifice says,

"This Cross of Sacrifice is one in design and intention with those which have been set up in France and Belgium and other places throughout the world where our dead of the Great War are laid to rest. Their name liveth for Evermore".

The phrase comes from the Bible (Ecclesiasticus 44:14). and was chosen by Rudyard Kipling, then literary advisor to the Commission, as a universal epitaph for the fallen.

Among these many burials from 1914-1918 are two men from H.M.S. Mary Rose, and 4 from H.M.S. Strongbow. On 17th October 1917, these two destroyers were escorting 12 merchant ships on a westbound convoy from Scandinavia.

The lead vessel was the Mary Rose, under the command of Lt Commander Charles Leonard Fox, with Strongbow captained by Lt. Commander Edward Brooke at the rear of the convoy. The crew of Strongbow first spotted two unidentified cruisers approaching the convoy. Three signals were sent asking the vessels to identify themselves. The third of these received a badly morsed response.

The vessels had been rigged to look like British cruisers. They were SMS Bremse and SMS Brummer of the German fleet; two fast cruisers, which had before been used for mine laying, dispatched by Admiral Scheer to intercept convoys of the ships in the North Sea, between Britain and Norway.

Lt-Commander Brooke’s Strongbow prepared to open fire, but the ship was hit by the opening salvo from the Germans, leaving Strongbow unable to move.

Meanwhile, Mary Rose had turned back on hearing the gunfire, with Fox initially thinking that U-boats had attacked the convoy. Although ill-prepared to fight against such heavy odds, the Mary Rose opened fire from a range of around 6,000-7,000 yards.

German fire became increasingly accurate at around 2,000 yards, and within a short time, the Mary Rose had to be abandoned.

Neither destroyer had been able to send out any messages about their fate.

Nine of the merchant ships were sunk, with only three steamers and two trawlers surviving. In total, around 250 men lost their lives in this engagement.

Of the Strongbow crew of 82, 45 were lost. All, except 10, of the Mary Rose crew were lost.

Most of those lost from Strongbow and Mary Rose are commemorated on the Chatham, Plymouth or Portsmouth Naval Memorials, but there are four buried in Fredrikstad Military Cemetery in Norway, and also here in Lerwick.

James R. Nicolson wrote in his book Lerwick Harbour that, "the disaster left a deep impression on Lerwick, where the destroyers' crews had many friends".

Details can be found out about these stories, and many others connected to the First World War, via local tours delivered in Lerwick and other CWGC cemeteries throughout Shetland.

Sources: A short and unequal engagement. HMS Strongbow and HMS Mary Rose. Jill Stewart. W.F.A; C.W.G.C; Lerwick Harbour. James R. Nicolson. LHT. 1977; Lost in Waters Deep; The Sphere, Saturday, June 29th 1918.