Shetland in 7 fiddle tunes: A musical journey across the islands

From windswept headlands and rugged outer isles to crofting settlements and harbours, our selection of seven Shetland fiddle tunes highlights how living musical heritage continues to shape island life.

Whether you’re planning a longer stay, looking to travel more slowly, or rediscovering familiar places with fresh ears, this journey links Shetland’s authentic cultural heritage, traditional music and opportunities to explore the islands in a way that encourages meaningful connections.

"Music is very generally cultivated, as an amusement, by the Zetlanders of all ranks, and some of them have at different times attained no inconsiderable degree of excellence in several of its departments … … and among the peasantry almost one in ten can play on the violin.”

Sir Arthur Edmondstone:
‘View of the Ancient and Present State of the Zetland Isles’, 1809.

The quote above is from Peter R. Cooke’s thesis, ‘The Fiddle Tradition of the Shetland Isles’, 1982. Two centuries after Arthur Edmonstone’s words were written, Shetland may not quite have a fiddling ratio of one in ten (although, who knows – something that needs a bit more research, perhaps?). However, there are many very fine fiddlers of all ages who delight in playing tunes old and new, composers who are providing the ‘new’ tunes, and teachers who impart the various skills and playing styles. Here we highlight seven popular Shetland tunes and encourage you to take a musical journey around the isles to explore the areas that inspired them.

While these tunes are compositions from the last 60 or so years, the ‘traditional’ tunes of Shetland are much older and, in the main, have been passed down aurally through the generations.

Many of those tunes were ‘saved’ by the work and dedication of Dr Tom Anderson, the main instigator of the fiddle resurgence in the isles. Tom founded and led the Shetland Fiddlers Society – the ‘Forty Fiddlers’ – in the late 1950s and became the first teacher of traditional fiddle in schools in the early 1970s when the tunes he’d collected, recorded and transcribed were taught to his pupils.

Professional performers such as Aly Bain, Jenna Reid, Kevin Henderson and Ross Couper entertain audiences the world over with the music of their homeland, and island-based groups such as the Shetland Fiddlers Society (still going strong) and Shetland Folk Society are instrumental in cultivating the music ‘as an amusement’ to this day.

Area – Yell

This lightsome hornpipe was written by Debbie, now a fiddle teacher, for ‘Peerie Willie’ Johnson, Shetland’s most renowned guitar accompanist, who is largely responsible for the Shetland guitar style of vamping.

Willie was born at Bouster, Herra, on the island of Yell. There’s a memorial to him on the hillside opposite his birthplace. Yell has many more attractions including the Old Haa museum and tearoom at Burravoe and shops at Burravoe, Mid Yell – where there’s a café and leisure centre too – and Cullivoe. The galley shed at Cullivoe has an Up-Helly-Aa exhibition and there’s a lovely art gallery at Sellafirth.

There are some beautiful sandy beaches to stroll along – check out Westsandwick, Breckon and Gossabrough – as well as miles of moorland for more adventurous walkers. Yell is well worth a ferry trip for a day visit and there’s a range of accommodation if you want to stay and explore all its delights. Yell is the stepping stone to Unst - 'the isle above all others' - and Fetlar - the 'garden of Shetland'. Plan your ferry journey here.

Area – Eshaness, Northmavine

This beautiful slow air was written when Tom noticed the dwindling number of crofthouse lights in his home area of Eshaness, Northmavine.

There is much to see and do in the parish of Northmavine, and you can spend many hours viewing incredible cliffs, sea stacks, coastal scenery and interesting geology.

Ronas Hill (Shetland’s highest) stands proudly and has spectacular views from its summit, if you’re energetic enough for the climb. The isle of Uyea, with Shetland’s oldest rocks, and an historic fishing station at Fethaland, are great but long walks, too.

For those less active, spend some time at Braewick café and caravan park or the wildlife sanctuary at Hillswick, where there’s also a shop, hotel and gallery. Tangwick Haa museum is well worth a visit, while the Ollaberry shop and the Bruckland recycling centre are other amenities.

A great app called ‘Be-Nort Da Grind’ can guide you through the area at your leisure; download it from the usual online sources.

Area – Nesting, Lunnasting and Delting

This very well-known reel was written for champion fiddler Arthur’s favourite trout fishing spot.

Laxo Burn runs into Laxo Voe in the Vidlin area on Shetland’s east coast. The ferry to the island of Whalsay sails from Laxo, and just along the road is the wonderful Cabin Museum. Travel a bit further to find the historic Lunna Kirk and some great walking to the Stanes of Stofast.

A detour through Nesting will take you to the popular Nesting Scrapstore (open Wednesdays and Sundays), a general store at Skellister that featured in the ‘Shetland’ TV series, and some interesting aviation history at Catfirth.

Head north from either Nesting or Vidlin and visit the picturesque village of Voe. Here you’ll find a soft play facility and café as well as a shop. The annual Voe agricultural show is held on the first Saturday in August if you’re visiting at that time.

Area – Aith (West Mainland)

A super tune from one of Shetland’s most talented fiddlers, who played with Fiddlers Bid and Drop the Box. Michael, who sadly passed away at the age of 21, was from Aith, on Shetland’s west side.

A woodland, Michaelswood, has been created over the years and is an excellent attraction for young and old. The village also has a shop, leisure centre, charity shop and one of Shetland’s two lifeboat stations.

Travel further west and explore the busy settlements of Walls – where the Foula ferry sails from, Sandness – where Jamieson’s wool is spun, Skeld with its well-equipped caravan park and Reawick with its red-sand beach, as well as all the side roads that lead to some impressive coastal sights, beaches and another woodland garden at Sand.

The ferry to the isle of Papa Stour with its 22-mile coastline – a kayaker’s dream – sails from West Burrafirth. There are also shops at Walls and Bixter.

Area – Mousa (via South Mainland)

This tune, a slow-paced hornpipe, was inspired by the isle of Mousa, an RSPB nature reserve lying off Sandwick in the southeast of Shetland. Chris is a well-known professional musician who grew up in Sandwick, although hails from Fair Isle.

Trips to Mousa, to see the best-preserved Iron Age broch in existence, as well as the wildlife, run from Leebitton regularly through the summer months. Attractions in Sandwick include a swimming pool, play park, shop and bakery.

Hoswick has a visitor centre and café, a jewellery workshop and is a hub for knitwear – both traditional and contemporary. The nearby settlements of Fladdabister, Cunningsburgh (with a caravan site at the marina) and Levenwick (with its campsite and lovely beach) are worth exploring.

Sumburgh Airport is a few miles further south as are the historic Jarlshof and Old Scatness sites, and the Sumburgh Head nature reserve and visitor centre. The ferry to Fair Isle leaves from Grutness pier, near the airport.

Area – Foula (as seen from Bigton, South Mainland)

Foula lies 25 miles to the west of Shetland’s Mainland. Its five-hill silhouette, as well as the stunning sunset that inspired this waltz, can be seen from many areas in the west of Shetland.

If you can’t manage a trip to Foula (by ferry from Walls or flight from Tingwall) try to capture what Ronnie, a well-known pianist and accordionist, saw from somewhere such as Bigton.

Situated in the southwest mainland, Bigton is the location of Shetland’s most famous beach – St Ninian’s – as well as a shop and the eclectic Hymhus which is a great example of church repurposing that hosts a second-hand shop, workshops, musical events and much more.

Interesting visits can be made to Paparwark and the Hand-Made Fish Company, too.

Trips to Foula can also be made from Hamnavoe in Burra Isle with Shetland Sea Adventures. Burra, near Scalloway, is home to Shetland’s only wallabies at the Outpost. The isle is also home to the Burra Bears workshop, and many more attractions, including the Meal and Minn beaches.

Area – Lerwick

Along with Da Slockit Light this is one of Shetland’s most well-loved slow airs and was composed by one of Shetland’s best-loved fiddlers. Willie wrote this when a close family member was leaving Lerwick on the ‘north boat’, sailing south through Bressay Sound.

Maybe after travelling through the tunes and sights of Shetland, you’ll feel what many exiles do when they’re leaving Lerwick Harbour. But first enjoy what the island capital has to offer by spending time among its many attractions such as the Shetland Museum, Clickimin Broch, Mareel arts centre and cinema, many independent shops and eateries, and bars that host music sessions as well as gigs in all genres.

Pick up some local CDs and tune books by the above composers in the High Level Music shop and take a wander through the old town where much of the ‘Shetland’ TV series is filmed.

You can even take the short ferry trip over to Bressay to take part in the Parkrun on Saturday mornings, or venture further to the Noss National Nature Reserve.