Shetland food and drink production

It is often said that the Orkney people are farmers with a boat, while Shetlanders are fisherfolk with a croft. This reflects the differences in landscape and occupations in these neighbouring archipelagos.

Much of Shetland’s landscape is rugged and untamed regularly scoured by salt-laden gales. Areas of fertile ground needed to be shared among the crofting population.

Crofting history is an important part of Shetland’s story, which remains relevant. Historically, each croft would have a small area of cultivatable ground for growing crops and keeping a cow. They would also have access to large areas of rugged hill to keep their sheep and ponies.

These hardy animals could live outside all year round, even in the worst storms, without needing expensive feed or purpose-built shelter.

Over the years, crofting in Shetland has changed dramatically, but our native sheep and cattle remain important parts of contemporary island food production.

The native Shetland cow was once a staple of every croft. Considerably smaller than today’s commercial meat and dairy cattle, this ancient breed almost became extinct. In the 1980s, there were fewer than 30 left, but thanks to the work of some dedicated crofters, numbers have increased significantly, and they are once again a familiar presence in Shetland landscapes.

Over the years, crofting in Shetland has changed dramatically, but our native sheep and cattle remain important parts of contemporary island food production.

I visited Ronnie and Jakob Eunson at Uradale Farm on the west coast of the Mainland, across the voe from Scalloway, to learn more about this breed and what makes them so special.

Ronnie explained, “They were on the verge of extinction, and we wanted to prove they had a worthwhile future, that their meat is healthier than the types you pick up at the supermarket.”

Jakob described how they had their meat tested by various academic bodies and the results showed that the meat is not only rich in nutrients like omega 3 and 6, iron and zinc but that it has a high concentration of healthy fats.

They move through the hills and valleys to find what they need; flowers, sweetgrass and heather. This is why the meat has so much flavour.

Meat fat has a bad reputation, often cited as a leading cause of serious health conditions but fat’s relationship with our bodies is far more nuanced. Ronnie explained that we need fats in our diet and that the fat and nutrient composition of their meat was similar to that of wild animals. There is a high concentration of ‘good fats’ which help the body break down cholesterol.

“Because they are unimproved and slow maturing, they have more time to pick up nutrients. They have evolved in the Shetland climate over thousands of years and adapted to this. They move through the hills and valleys to find what they need; flowers, sweetgrass and heather. This is why the meat has so much flavour.”

The Eunsons described how their farming practice affects more than just the health of the animals but is part of creating sustainable landscapes.

They keep their number of cattle and sheep low so the animals have large areas to forage reducing the risk of overgrazing. These practices help to maintain the health of bog and peatland which are globally important for carbon storage.

“We need to look at the big picture, of human health, climate health and keeping farming sustainable in places like Shetland.”

As I left, I looked from this vast landscape of hills and sea to the cattle by the house. One cow looked over, regarding me with a steady gaze while the others grazed, the sounds of their rhythmic chewing merging with the starling song that surrounded us. It is hard to believe that this scene, so naturally part of Shetland landscapes, could have disappeared if the breed had not been saved.

With a shorter growing season and frequent wild weather, growing vegetables in Shetland has always been challenging. Traditionally, people would build small, circular-walled gardens, called plantiecrubs, to protect seedlings from the wind.

You can often see the remains of these in our landscape, stone memorials to previous generations who worked the land.

Today, many people use a modern alternative – Polycrubs. Built using parts of recycled salmon cages and reinforced plastic, these sturdy greenhouses can withstand gales over 100mph.

These structures allow people to grow many types of vegetables that would otherwise be impossible to cultivate here.

You can read more about the Polycrub and the innovative community development company behind it here.

However, even without a Polycrub there are many possibilities for a Shetland garden.

Penny Armstrong from Transition Turrriefield, which grows fruit and veg on Shetland’s West Side, explains. “Shetland growing is very different from other places. It can take time to learn how to work with the soil and shelter you have. This is one of the reasons we set up Turriefield, to gather that knowledge and share it with others.”

She was speaking at an outreach workshop in the Burra Hall. They were there to discuss different types of soil composition in Shetland and how to work with them, as well as demonstrating the best ways to plant seedlings. Interest in their outreach work has increased substantially, and they provide many classes throughout the year to varied groups.

There are so many benefits when locally grown vegetables are available, either through what people produce in their gardens or buy from local shops.

The produce tastes better, and nutritional quality is vastly improved when transportation distances are low.

And, there’s another important factor, as Penny explained. “We want to help people gain the skills to produce food locally, it is essential for long-term sustainability. We need more locally produced food for food security.

"We can’t keep growing things on a massive scale and shipping them around the world and relying on increasingly tenuous supply chains.”

Ann Johnson at Scoop Wholefoods in Lerwick echoes these sentiments. She described the importance of having reliable sources of local produce.

“Local food is very important as it helps our local economy and cuts down on food waste. I would like to see much more produced here and far less being imported.”

She has been involved in local food initiatives for many years and has noticed a significant increase in community support for Shetland seafood, meat and vegetables.

She said people are becoming more aware of the quality of Shetland produce, and its health and climate benefits.

“I would like to see people producing more food, especially in outlying areas. If people [in those areas] grow some vegetables or keep some sheep then they can sell to local shops. It is additional income for the household that might allow them to stay in that area, and everybody benefits from there being more good quality products available to buy.”

What struck me during these conversations was the shared vision of working to increase the availability of local food and helping people experience the quality, taste and health benefits of what Shetland has to offer.

We are very lucky in Shetland to have many local shops in different areas that stock and promote products produced in the islands.

Farms like Uradale not only produce high-quality native beef and lamb but have taken important steps of having Shetland meat’s nutritional qualities scientifically verified.

And it is organisations like Turriefield, providing advice to folk who want to grow their own, that could help achieve Ann’s vision of increased local production become.

During my time conducting PhD research with Shetland crofters, I noticed many were inspired by similar ideas. They wanted to find ways to use traditional skills and traditional breeds in ways that were forward-looking and actively contributed to increasing island sustainability into the future.

Although Shetland has some incredible food from the land, we must also look to the waters surrounding the islands. Fishing has always been an important part of life in Shetland, and today the fishing industry is the biggest contributor to our economy.

We have fishing boats that go out for whitefish like cod and haddock, and pelagic trawlers that fish for oily fish like herring and mackerel. In fact, the mixed fishery is one of the reasons that Shetland is such a prime location for the fleet.

The boats we see landing fish in the harbours today are often run by the same families who have owned boats of the same name for many generations.

But the part of our fishing industry that is growing most rapidly is our farmed fish. Most Scottish mussels are produced here in the islands, and a large proportion of Scottish salmon comes from farms here.

I asked Ruth Henderson of Seafood Shetland why Shetland’s fishing industry is so successful.

“First, our geographical location. Two mighty seas – the Atlantic Ocean and the North Sea – meet here and this makes for an often fierce but extremely clean environment which is ideal for a whole range of seafood.

The environment is the starting point, but then there’s the care, the experience, and the expertise at all the subsequent stages of the process – the catching, the rearing, the processing, and the timely delivery of fresh products to our markets.

“The environment is the starting point, but then there’s the care, the experience, and the expertise at all the subsequent stages of the process – the catching, the rearing, the processing, and the timely delivery of fresh products to our markets.

“Through all of this, our industry has a clear commitment to quality, which is independently monitored to ensure that any quality issues are identified and dealt with immediately.”

She described how the industry has developed over the centuries in Shetland and that this is always evolving in response to the needs of people and the environment. She said many positive developments on the horizon will help increase the efficiency and sustainability of island aquaculture.

“There are many great job opportunities in our industry and a wide range of entry levels for a career in a sector which is massively important to the economy not only of Shetland but also of Scotland. Everything, of course, depends on maintaining the clean, healthy environment we have here in Shetland, and as an industry, we are doing everything we can to protect that for future generations and to ensure that the seafood industry continues to provide great career opportunities.”

The untamed environment surrounding Shetland provides an ideal setting for fish and shellfish to thrive. This fertile environment fosters the remarkable ecology of our surrounding oceans, facilitating sustainable populations of seafood.

I asked Michael Tait of Shetland Mussels about what makes our famed fish so special. Again, the environment plays an important role.

“I believe that anyone who samples our seafood, particularly when in Shetland where it's as fresh as can be, can see, taste and smell its exceptional quality. The untamed environment surrounding Shetland provides an ideal setting for fish and shellfish to thrive.

“This fertile environment fosters the remarkable ecology of our surrounding oceans, facilitating sustainable populations of seafood.”

Although the aquaculture industry is relatively new, island fishing and farming traditions are one of the reasons it is so successful. Michael continues, “Ultimately, what makes our seafood truly special is the dedication and expertise of the people within the seafood industry. Most people who work in the sector have a long heritage of family members who have worked on the sea.

“It’s easy to say it runs in the blood, but the practical side of this long experience is that our boat husbandry staff are drawing down on multi-generational experience every day as we often battle harsh conditions to go to sea and harvest our produce. In our mussel farming part of the fisheries sector, I like to think there is another set of skills which is helpful, in that Shetland also has a long-standing crofting tradition which means livestock management is instinctive. That is important as we nurture our shellfish for three years until they reach market size. So, the merging of crofting and fishing legacies takes on fresh significance in our relatively new mussel farming sector.”

He added that there was an eagerness to work in the industry, with many young people employed or undergoing training in the sector. This picture helps ensure that Michael is optimistic of the sector’s continued growth.

We are very lucky to have such fresh, high-quality seafood available to buy in Shetland, and it is a favourite on many dinner tables. But there are also wonderful products made from our seafood, from the variety of options at restaurants to artisan smoked salmon. I visited David of the Handmade Fish Company to learn how he transforms local salmon into a unique product.

“When a fish dies, for me that is when it comes alive,” he explained.

“The process of ageing naturally breaks down the cell structure and all of a sudden, microbes and enzymes are released that develop a natural flavour enhancer.”

He described how each part, the head, the tail and the mid-sections are all different and people often have a favourite. He opened a pack of each for me to try, cutting the salmon with a flint as metal can alter the taste, reducing the quality of flavours you experience.

Trying each in turn, I was amazed at just how different each was. The flavours were incredible, and I commented on how completely different it was from any other smoked salmon I had tasted.

He said that this is one of the reasons he loves to do tasting sessions with people, so they get the experience of trying the salmon, seeing the process and learning that there are other ways of having smoked salmon beyond those we are familiar with in the supermarket.

One of my first thoughts was that it seemed less ‘fishy’ than expected, the smell and taste much subtler. I initially suppressed the comment as it felt like a silly thing to say about fish.

I felt vindicated a few moments later when David described how the techniques he uses when filleting and aging the salmon mean it doesn’t have that ‘fishy’ taste that some people find overpowering. It is flavour that is key to the product he is producing. With time, extensive research and practice he has learned the importance of precise timing at each stage of the process.

Because the wood used for smoking has such an effect on the smell and taste of the salmon, he makes his own sawdust, and at the side of the room there was a large piece of oak wood that he has been using for his recent smoking.

Since I have lived in Shetland I have enjoyed the range of local produce available but chatting to people involved in their creation has given me an increased level of respect for the hard work that goes into the good quality food that we might sometimes take for granted.

Everybody I spoke to had extensive knowledge about the history of food production in Shetland and uses this knowledge in diverse ways while adapting to changing landscapes and economies.

There is a real passion here, about ensuring we have increasing access to local, sustainably produced and tasty food.