The coastline is spectacular, consisting mostly of cliffs that are formed from the same type of volcanic rock found in Eshaness, at the other, northern side of the wide St Magnus Bay. Stacks, caves, blowholes and natural arches add to the drama, but there are also beautiful sandy beaches. Up until very recent times, many ships came to grief on the rocks and skerries. Today, although the strong tides demand respect, it’s a coast that invites exploration by kayak or small boat.
The island doesn’t have many permanent residents now, but as recently as the 1980s was home to a larger population, after the local postmaster successfully advertised nationally for new residents. Much farther back, in the 19th century, almost 400 people lived here.
George’s exploration is prefaced by his wonderfully-detailed map, though you’ll need a magnifying glass to reveal the dozens of place-names that he recorded. The walk takes us around the island, clockwise, beginning at the Sooth Sand, a beach in the south east.
It’s not possible in a brief review to do justice to the astonishing amount of detail that George, and now Peter, have managed to include. However, some sections and themes are especially memorable.
Shipwrecks feature a great deal. George records four vessels that met their end at the mouth of Hamna Voe. The first of these was a French whaler, which was driven ashore in a gale; all of the 44 crew reached shore safely. In September 1746, the crew of a German ship, Die Frau Rebeccah Elisabeth, were less fortunate and it’s worth quoting George’s account directly:
Eleven bodies were washed up and buried in the Papa kirkyard, six at the expense of the Kirk Session and five at the personal expense of Mr George Greig, merchant in Papa, and a man of philanthropic character. A letter was forwarded to Herr Burchard Fixen in Hamburg, agent for the owners, requesting payment for the 11 coffins and other funeral expenses. However, the reply from Herr Fixen only came in 1750, to the effect that the Papa men might be content with what they had saved from the ship for their payment.
This was followed by another tragedy in extraordinary circumstances: islanders, fearing the Press Gang – which had already seized some young men for naval service – mistook a vessel lying offshore for one of the Press Gang’s ships and shone lights to lead the vessel onto the rocks. To the horror of the community, the ship turned out to be a Dutch brig, from which all the crew were lost. Several of them were buried nearby.
In 1864, a Norwegian ship foundered in the voe, the anchors having failed to hold her in a gale. This time, though, islanders helped to save all the crew.