How to spend an autumn break in Shetland

Autumn is a wonderful time to experience Shetland beyond the busiest visitor months. A calm day might call for a coastal walk, an outer island adventure or even a sea swim followed by a sauna. If the weather has other ideas, swap your plans for one of Shetland's excellent indoor attractions before heading out again when the skies clear.

While some seasonal attractions close at the end of September, there's still plenty to enjoy throughout autumn. Cafes, restaurants, shops and year-round attractions remain open, while ferries continue to connect the islands, although services to the more remote islands can occasionally be affected by the weather. Autumn days are shorter, so plan one main adventure each day, build a little flexibility into your itinerary and you'll make the most of your time in Shetland.

Shetland is larger than many first-time visitors expect, so this is not a checklist of everything to see. Instead, choose the days that best suit your interests, arrival point and the forecast.

Choose your autumn days

Explore Lerwick

Allow at least half a day for Shetland's capital.

Start at Shetland Museum & Archives to get a real sense of the islands' history, culture and traditions before wandering along Commercial Street and the historic waterfront. Browse independent shops such as Jamieson's of Shetland, Ninian and other local retailers for Fair Isle knitwear, textiles, jewellery and gifts you won't find anywhere else.

Round off the day with dinner in town or see what's on at Mareel, Shetland's main arts venue, where you'll find films, live music and exhibitions throughout the year.

Visit the South Mainland

It's well worth dedicating a full day to the south. Start at Jarlshof, one of Scotland's most remarkable archaeological sites, where more than 4,000 years of human history are revealed in a single location. From there, head to Sumburgh Head for spectacular coastal views before continuing to St Ninian's Isle, crossing the famous sand tombolo to explore the beach and surrounding coastline.

On your way back north, make time for Hoswick, a small village that's home to local makers, a visitor centre and cafe and a shoreline that's perfect for stretching your legs.

If the weather is calm, the South Mainland is also a wonderful place for a sea swim. Afterwards, warm up in one of Shetland's wood-fired coastal saunas before continuing your journey.

Discover Scalloway, Trondra and Burra

For a day that combines history, coastal scenery and time on the water, explore Scalloway, Trondra and Burra.

Begin in Scalloway, Shetland's former capital, where Scalloway Museum tells the remarkable story of the Shetland Bus operation during the Second World War (open until early October). Stop for coffee or lunch before continuing across the bridges to the islands of Trondra and Burra.

Burra is home to two of Shetland's finest beaches – Minn Beach and Meal Beach – both perfect for an autumn walk. If conditions are calm, the sheltered waters around the islands are also ideal for sea kayaking.

Take a scenic route through the Westside

The Westside rarely features on a first-time visitor's itinerary, but it's one of the most rewarding areas to explore if you enjoy taking the slower route.

Follow the quieter roads through Weisdale, Aith, Bixter, Walls and Sandness, where sheltered voes, working crofts and small coastal communities give this part of Shetland its distinctive character. Stop to admire the view from the Scord of Weisdale, look across Vaila Sound, or spend time on one of the Westside's beautiful beaches at Sand, Reawick, Westerwick or Culswick.

If you're interested in archaeology, this is also one of the best parts of Shetland to explore. Walk out to the remarkable Stanydale Temple, visit the Broch of Culswick, or discover the prehistoric field systems at Scord of Brouster – all reminders that people have made their lives in this landscape for thousands of years.

Before you head home, call in at the community-run Kergord Hatchery Bookshop, where thousands of secondhand books fill a beautifully converted hatchery building. It's the sort of unexpected stop that sums up the Westside perfectly – friendly, independent and well worth making time for.

Experience Northmavine and Eshaness

If you're looking for dramatic scenery, head north into Northmavine, where quiet roads eventually lead to one of Shetland's most iconic landscapes.

Eshaness is one of the islands' most recognisable places, and with good reason. Ancient volcanic cliffs, towering sea stacks and deep geos have been sculpted by the Atlantic over millions of years, creating a coastline unlike anywhere else in Britain. It's worth visiting whatever the weather, but autumn often brings powerful Atlantic swells that add another dimension to the landscape.

If conditions allow, follow part of the cliff path for spectacular views or spend time around Braewick, watching the sea and taking in one of Shetland's most unforgettable places.

Visit an outer island

Even in autumn, island-hopping is very much on the agenda.

Bressay is an easy day trip from Lerwick, while Yell and Fetlar offer quiet roads, beautiful beaches and excellent opportunities for spotting wildlife. If you have more time, continue north to Unst, Britain's northernmost inhabited island.

For something a little different, take the ferry to Whalsay. Known as the 'Bonnie Isle', it's home to one of Shetland's busiest fishing fleets, making it a fascinating place to experience modern island life.

If you're hoping to visit Fair Isle, Foula or Papa Stour, keep your plans flexible, as sailings can occasionally be affected by autumn weather.

In late September or early October, boat trips around Noss and Bressay may still be available. Both Seabirds-and-Seals and Shetland Seabird Tours offer wildlife trips with opportunities to spot seals, gannets and, if you're lucky, dolphins or whales.

Making the most of three nights

A long weekend is enough to get a real feel for Shetland, but it's best not to try to cover too much ground. Base yourself in one place. Explore Lerwick and South Mainland, then choose one other area of Mainland or an easily accessible island such as Bressay or Yell. With limited time, we'd recommend saving more distant destinations such as Unst, Fair Isle or Foula for a longer visit.

Making the most of five nights

Five nights gives you the chance to explore more of the Mainland while adding a day on one of the outer islands. Alongside Lerwick and South Mainland, choose two or three other areas that interest you, then take the ferry to Yell, Whalsay or Bressay. If you're keen to visit Unst, allow a full day for the journey.

Making the most of a week

A week gives you much more flexibility. You'll have time to explore different parts of Mainland, visit one or two outer islands and still leave space in your itinerary to follow the weather. If conditions are favourable, this is also when you might consider a trip to Fair Isle, Foula or Papa Stour, although it's always sensible to have a backup plan in autumn.

The best autumn trips to Shetland aren't measured by how many places you visit, but by how much time you spend enjoying them. Leave a little room in your itinerary, embrace the weather and you'll discover that autumn is an excellent time to explore the islands.