Favourite Shetland storm-watching spots

To be in Shetland is to be in a world of weather. At 60º North, with many miles of sea in every direction, we often experience the full force of storms. I love it.

Being inside, warm and cosy while winter storms rage all around, listening to the wind whistling and the rain battering the windows. But I can’t help venturing outside because there is an incredible, elemental beauty to Shetland’s wild weather.

The best places to watch storms depend on the direction of the prevailing winds. Even in a violent gale, some of our waters remain sheltered while others get the full force of the storm. Here are some of my favourite places for storm watching in Shetland.

When watching storms, it is important to stay safe. There are often unpredictably strong gusts, and you must always keep a safe distance from cliff edges. Our dramatic winter seas have powerful waves, and there can be sudden, larger swells that can take you by surprise.

Being inside, warm and cosy while winter storms rage all around, listening to the wind whistling and the rain battering the windows. But I can’t help venturing outside because there is an incredible, elemental beauty to Shetland’s wild weather.

When there is a gale from the west, Eshaness is one of the most dramatic places to watch our wild seas. The peninsula of sheer cliffs extends into the Atlantic and is regularly battered by huge swells.

The colours are incredible, as deep blue waves, white-tipped with foam, crash against the red volcanic rocks. The rugged coastline of deep inlets and sea caves means the sound of the sea echoes and reverberates across the land.

Despite the cliffs being 50m high in places, waves and sea spray flow over the land, and you feel immersed in worlds of land, sea and sky.

A little along the coast is the small beach at Stenness. A short walk from here gives amazing views of the Dore Holm. This natural arch, formed by the sea erosion of softer rock that leaves the harder rock standing, resembles a horse bending to drink from the water.

When the swell is high, waves often break over the Dore Holm, and it is one of the most popular places to get incredible storm photographs.

Sumburgh Head, on the southern tip of the Shetland Mainland, is one of the best areas to watch the sea when there is a storm from the south or southeast. The exposed cliffs offer an amazing view out over the water in several directions.

Although most of our seabirds have returned to sea before winter arrives, many fulmar remain at these cliffs. This is the season where these often-overlooked birds are in their element. Fulmar are distant relatives of the albatross, and this connection can be clearly seen as they gracefully move with air currents and skim over stormy seas.

Sometimes the best spot for wave watching isn’t Sumburgh Head but the nearby West Voe beach. When the wind and tides flow into this voe, it creates a dramatic swell with a gorgeous backdrop for photos as waves crash over the cliffs at Sumburgh and the ancient ruins of Jarlshof.

Another amazing spot when a westerly gale hits is the island of West Burra. There are two excellent spots to experience the huge Atlantic swells safely.

The white shell sand of Meal Beach makes the water here a tropical turquoise. When waves break on this beach, the colour and clarity of the water are mesmerising.

Rays of sunlight passing through the waves seem to momentarily freeze their motion as they break, offering a brief window into this underwater world. In these moments, you can often see seals appearing as dark shadows in the surf.

If the weather allows it, you can walk along the coast path from Meal to Hamnavoe, or if it is too wild to walk, you can make the short drive there. If you park by the harbour, the views of waves breaking over the lighthouse are incredible.

Rocks and sea defences around this area offer many safe places to watch the water.

A northerly gale in Shetland can feel brutal, with wind chill making temperatures feel considerably lower than the weather forecasts suggest.

The northernmost parts of Shetland offer the best views of the sea on those days. However, it is not recommended to travel to our northern islands (Unst, Yell and Fetlar) to watch waves, as there can be weather-related disruptions to our inter-island ferries.

If you are on the Mainland and want to experience the wind and weather in these conditions, I would recommend wrapping up warm and heading to North Roe. From here, several places give beautiful views out to sea.

If you feel like braving a longer walk then from a parking spot at Isbister you can follow a rugged path, with amazing views out to sea, to reach the point of Fethaland and its lighthouse.

One of the greatest joys after a storm is to walk along the beaches and see what treasures have been washed ashore. This is the best time to find unusual shells, sea glass and seaworn pottery.

On our western shores, you can often find beautiful curls of birch bark that have crossed the ocean from trees in North America. Known locally as Loki’s candles, these light easily and burn well and were a valued source of tinder in a place with few trees.

For those with open fires, driftwood washed ashore makes some excellent free firewood. If you can’t take it all home the day you collect, you can make a pile above the high tide line. Island custom means that driftwood placed above the 'shoormal' will not be taken by others.

Discover your True North, and embrace Shetland's invigorating and dramatic winter landscapes.