The walk exploring the coastal path along the west side of Burra is beautiful. On this walk, you can see some of Shetland’s most spectacular landscapes and experience our history and wildlife.
Summer is the perfect time to explore Shetland, with landscapes filled with flowers and the long daylight hours allowing plenty of evening adventures. This walk in Burra includes archaeology, wildlife spotting and spectacular views.
The 'safe harbour' of Hamnavoe in Burra. Catherine Munro
The walk begins at Hamnavoe, a pretty fishing village in West Burra. The name Hamnavoe is common in Orkney and Shetland and is thought to be from the Old Norse 'hofn', which means safe harbour.
This is certainly a fitting name here as the area is protected from the wild Atlantic seas by the Fugla Ness peninsula. It is this natural shelter that led to the village’s rapid expansion as it provided refuge for boats as well as access to good fishing grounds to the west.
There were around six houses in Hamnavoe in 1890, but by the 1920s it had become a busy fishing village with rows of fishermen’s cottages. These cottages remain and are beautifully painted, and many have gardens adorned with shells, fishing floats, or life rings from boats.
It is well worth a stroll up the street to see the ‘shellie hoose’ a shed that is entirely covered with shells collected in the local area.
The shell-covered house in Hamnavoe. @thecuriouspilgrims
The ladder descending into the smuggler's cave. Catherine Munro
This walk passes the harbour, where, if you sit a while, you often see local fishermen returning with their catch. It is also a wonderful place for spotting seals.
As you continue along the coastline, look out for a wooden sign marking the entrance to the smuggler’s cave. Used for centuries by people hiding gin and tobacco to avoid paying tax, this cave is accessible by an 8-metre rope ladder.
The ladder is quite worn and weathered, and the steps can be slippery, so the descent requires care. Once inside, you enter a world of eerie darkness, with the sounds of waves and seabirds echoing all around.
From here, the walk becomes steeper until you reach the top of the Pundster peninsula where you can enjoy fantastic views across Burra. Once you are ready to move on, the path continues downhill towards the rocky beach at Urmlee.
Just before you reach the shore, it is worth stopping for a moment to explore the remains of some Bronze Age houses. At first glance, they look little different from the rest of the rocky headland, but on closer inspection, you can see that they are separate circular structures. Although we have many famous archaeological sites like the multi-period Jarlshof in the South Mainland, and the spectacular Mousa Broch, Shetland also has a lot of archaeology in other areas, where you can encounter ancient houses as part of an evening stroll.
Along the coast from these remains, there is some more recent history in the landscape. Carved into the coastline are boat noosts.
These were the places where fishermen would keep their boats safe above the high tide line.
Keep an eye out for the remains of Bronze Age homes. Catherine Munro
Sea polished pebbles. Catherine Munro
Urmlee Beach itself is beautiful and often quieter than its sandy neighbour, Meal. Rocks, polished and shaped by wild seas, shine in myriad hues. I can never pass this place without picking up a few to marvel at the range of colours and patterns that can exist within each stone.
From here it is a short walk along to Meal Beach, a crescent of white shell sand. This is a place where the water is always magical. Even on days of thick mist the water keeps its colour, shimmering silver and aquamarine. On days of bright sun, it appears deep turquoise and looks tropical.
The coast path west from Meal is quite steep and rugged so some people prefer to join the road at this point, returning to the path at Ludi.
From Ludi you have uninterrupted views across the Atlantic out to the island of Foula. Although you are close to many settlements, for much of this walk many houses aren’t visible. Surrounded by wind and sea, it feels like a very wild place.
Continuing west, you soon discover another beach. Known locally as ‘the selkie beach’, Sanik is a favourite haul-out place for these mammals.
If you sit quietly above the shore, you can often get an amazing view of the seals and watch their interactions. If you are very lucky, you might even hear them sing!
Seal song is one of the most eerily beautiful sounds and immediately brings to mind all the Shetland folktales of seals coming onto land and taking on human form.
After Sanik there is a steep climb along spectacular cliffs. At the top, you are rewarded with views of a sea arch. This is a popular place for fulmar, and it is a lovely spot to have a rest and watch them glide above the waves.
The path continues alongside the cliffs until you reach Minn Beach. It’s a sand tombolo that connects to the headland of Kettla Ness. If you still have energy and want to explore further, then you can cross the beach and explore the land beyond.
Kettla Ness is one of my favourite places in Shetland. When you reach the top of the first hill the views out over Burra and Minn Beach are incredible. Venture further, and you soon feel like you are somewhere truly wild.
Arctic terns, Arctic skua and Great skua all nest in this rugged coastline, so you need to take care and not disturb them. It is a joy to walk with these majestic birds flying overhead, their calls mingling with the voices of curlew, skylark and golden plover. In summer, this is a place of wildflowers, with colours of sea pinks, spring squill and orchids brightening this windswept land.
A truly spectacular place to explore.
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Arctic terns are one of the birds found nesting here. Catherine Munro