A crofter's diary: Green shoots – the pig, the plough and the polycrub

Most settlement in Bressay mirrors the western coast of the island, a reflection of generations of economic and social stimulus provided by the establishment and expansion of Lerwick, today a short ferry journey away.

Garths Croft is similarly positioned, looking across the southern limits of the harbour towards the Ness of Sound, the lights of the capital and associated maritime traffic clearly visible as darkness falls. As March begins, thoughts naturally gravitate towards increasing daylight hours.

This is most noticeable through observing where the sun sets behind the hills of the Shetland Mainland, its trajectory shifting in a northerly direction and its orbit increasing in elevation, a contrast from the low, oblique and beautiful midwinter light.

Snowdrops and crocuses have been visible for weeks, daffodils following a little behind and lush buds form on the trees within the sheltered confines of the drystone yard. Towards the middle of the month, the first skylark will be noted singing a wonderful, burbling call and the fruit trees in the polycrub will transition into a superb, fragrant blossom.

Preparing the ground

While Atlantic gales and northerly sleet and snow showers are all but inevitabilities, they generally become less regular, disruptive and severe. The whispers that spring is not far away grow louder.

Although the ground may not yet be warm enough to encourage germination, many crofters will use this window to undertake preparations and cultivations for the array of fantastic and varied local produce that is grown in Shetland.

The principal motivating factor, as with so much of the crofting year, is sheep-influenced. Throughout this month, the countdown to lambing across the isles is well underway and will inhabit a great many waking hours into April and May.

Preparing the ground ahead of this momentous period within the rural calendar allows planting to occur seamlessly once the height of the lambing has passed and the green shoots that are so readily consumed by ewes with lambs at foot provide an indication of rising temperatures and favourable conditions.

I have taken three approaches to cultivation and growing – the pig, the plough and the polycrub. Each of these techniques is reflective of increasing innovation.

Ploughing new furrows

Several years ago, having become an advocate of the theory that “life in Shetland is a story, not a chapter”, my trusty heritage breed Saddleback, Tamworth and Iron Age pigs would take several months cultivating (on some days, frankly, mining!) until not a blade of grass was left and the ground was turned black by their porcine endeavours.

Weeds and roots removed, copious natural fertiliser added and as long as the wind didn’t “huff and puff so much as to blow the house down”, happy outdoor piglets were reared and an unsurpassable ready-to-use vegetable patch created.

The tractor and plough, of course, achieves results in a fraction of the time and there is no more satisfying feeling than watching the mesmerising inversion of each furrow; flocks of gulls often circling above before landing to inspect offerings brought to the surface. Once ploughed, the ground must be given time to dry before being rotavated or harrowed to break up the crenelated surface and provide a perfect seedbed.

Shetland Polycrubs

Conscious of challenging conditions and average temperatures at northern latitudes, the Polycrub first appeared in 2008 as a Northmavine Community Development Company project. These structures have been a true Shetland success story, incorporating and recycling redundant material from the aquaculture industry and creating robust growing spaces.

Popular across the isles and further afield in Orkney, the Western Isles and Skye, many schools, community groups, crofters, farmers and individual householders have erected Polycrubs to grow more food locally, reduce food miles and extend the relatively short conventional growing season.

With the ground cultivated and raised beds prepared, thoughts turn to the bounteous array of what may be planted with confidence in Shetland. The Polycrub at Garths Croft Bressay is home to resident and established apple, pear, cherry and plum trees alongside banks of raspberry canes. Salad crops, peppers, courgettes and tomatoes are planted annually while fragrant flowers at either end of the structure encourage pollinators.

Within the drystone yard, peas, beans and leeks will grow alongside carrots, parsnips, onions and beetroot. Early and whole crop potatoes, or tatties, for so long a nutritious staple of the Shetland diet from late summer and stored over winter, are “chitted” and exposed to daylight through March, beginning to encourage plant growth before being set in one of the larger worked rigs, a broadly rectangular area of cultivation.

Whilst the days may still be cool, digging over and preparing ground for the growing season brings optimism for the months ahead.

The pinnacle could be said to be the summer country shows across the isles, where many growers bring selections to be displayed and judged. Local produce is available in shops and restaurants year round, testament to the dynamic agricultural community within Shetland.

Taste of Shetland celebrates Shetland’s exceptional food and drink, highlighting over 70 member organisations alongside fabulous recipes.

Watch: Celebrating the start of spring at Garths Croft Bressay.